INCI Name

What is it? 

Ingredients sourced from:

A vegetable-based Emulsifier from Stearic and Palmitic Acid.

Benefits

• Base Emulsifier is an excellent emulsifier for making light creams wit a soft, light and non-sticky skin feeling.
• It creates a cream emulsion that can hold  a lot of active raw materials and vitamins alike without the cream becoming sticky, which make sit an excellent choice for making anti-wrinkle cream- and lotion-serums. 

Which products to use it in

• Creams and Lotions
• Anti-Wrinkle and Skin Rejuvenation Creams and Lotions and  Cream- and Lotion-serums
• Peeling Creams and Lotions
• Cleansing Creams and Lotions
• Cream- or Lotion-based Exfoliants

Water- or oil-soluble? 

Recommended dosages and how to use in products

• Average percentage to use in a cream is 5% and a lotion is 2-3%, in both cases 2% Cetyl Alcohol must be used along with the Base Emulsifier. 
• As it is a water-in-oil-emulsion (W/O emulsion) you must place the water stage ingredients into the fat stage ingredients. 
• Please make sure you mix the Emulsifying Wax thoroughly before using in your recipes.

Restrictions using Base Emulsifier

• Do not use Base Emulsifier when adding more than 40% fats/oils to a cream or lotion otherwise it will easily separate over time.  
• As Base Emulsifier makes an alkaline cream, you can in the end, when the cream has cooled down and all the other ingredients have been added, add Lactic Acid. If you add Lactic Acid earlier then the cream becomes much thinner so add it at the end. The pH without the added Lactic Acid is usually 7-8, this is okay for baby products but if you want to bring it down to adult's skin pH, which is an average of 5.5, then add 6-10 drops per 100ml of cream as described, at the end of the recipe.
• Don’t use Zinc Oxide or Microfine Titanium Dioxide-products (including Tiosol) in a Base Emulsifier Cream or Lotion as it is incompatible with that raw material.

A note from Kolbjorn about using Base Emulsifier & Cetyl Alcohol

I do love how popular James has made making your own products to the general public though and I support his enthusiastic and great work!

Tips:

• You can make these creams without preservatives, but they will only keep for up to 1 week if kept in the fridge.
• These creams can be made without using the antioxidant Vitamin E Oil (100%) and they will keep for 7-8 months at room temperature. With the Vitamin E added, they will keep for 1.5-2 years. Beware that diluted Vitamin E Oil is sold in the market; however, these recipes are based on using 100% concentrated Vitamin E Oil, Simulated Natural from Aromantic.
• The creams can be made without using essential oils and this will not affect the shelf life.
• You can use your own kitchen equipment like a pyrex jug, etc, but it is advisable to buy a decent thermometer and a gram sensitive scale for accurate weighing (kitchen scales quite often only go down to 5g).

Storage

Recipes for Creams made with Base Emulsifier & Cetyl Alcohol

Recipe for Dry Skin (makes 100ml/g)

Fat Stage (75-80°C)

Water Stage (75-80°C)

Third Stage (40-35°C)

Fourth Stage (35-25°C)

Fifth Stage 35-25°C

Recipe for Mature Skin (makes 100ml/g)

Fat Stage (75-80°C)

Water Stage (75-80°C)

Third Stage (40-35°C)

Fourth Stage (35-25°C)

Fifth Stage (35-25°C)

Recipe for Sensitive Skin (makes 100ml/g)

Fat Stage (75-80°C)

Water Stage (75-80°C)

Third Stage (40-35°C)

Fourth Stage (35-25°C)

Fifth Stage (35-25°C)

Sixth Stage 35-25°C

Recipe for Oily Skin (makes 100ml/g)

Fat Stage (75-80°C)

Water Stage (75-80°C)

Third Stage (40-35°C)

Fourth Stage (35-25°C)

Fifth Stage (35-25°C)

Sixth Stage (35-25°C)

Recipe for Black Skin (makes 100ml/g)

Fat Stage (75-80°C)

Water Stage (75-80°C)

Third Stage (40-35°C)

Fourth Stage (35-25°C)

Fifth Stage (35-25°C)

Recipe for Hand Cream (makes 100ml/g)

Fat Stage (75-80°C)

Water Stage (75-80°C)

Third Stage (40-35°C)

Fourth Stage (35-25°C)

Fifth Stage (35-25°C)

Method for making Anti-Wrinkle/Skin Rejuvenation Creams

1. Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double boiler until all of the ingredients have melted and the temperature has risen to 75 - 80°C. There is no need to use a whisk at this stage.
2. Water Stage: After boiling the Spring Water in a Kettle, measure it according to the Recipe and pour it over the Glycerin, which you have put into a separate double boiler. Then heat mixture to 75 - 80°C.
3. When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75°C, remove both double boilers from the hob, keeping the Water Stage mixture hot by leaving it on the top half of the double boiler. 
4. Now pour the melted

   Water Stage into the Fat Stage in a thin, steady stream, while continuously whisking the mixture from side to side for 5 minutes.  If necessary, use a spatula to scrape the mixture from the sides of the saucepan (or bowl).

5. Allow the mixture to cool, stirring all the time. You can speed up by the cooling process by replacing the hot water in the double boiler with COLD water.  In the process of cooling down, the mixture becomes a Cream and will reach its thickest consistency when it is has cooled down to room temperature.
6. Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when the mixture has cooled to under 40˚C. 
7. Fourth Stage: When the mixture has cooled to under 35°C, then mix in the Essential Oils. 
8. Fifth Stage: Add Lactic Acid until the pH of the cream has come down to approximately 5.5.
9. Sixth Stage: If recipe requires it, Then add the Aloe Vera Gel little by little until you get the right consistency. 
10. Pour the Cream into jars and label.

Tips

• If you feel that the cream is too thick then add cold spring water a little bit at a time until you get the right consistency.
• If you have made a bigger amount of a Cream Recipe and you would now like to make a Lotion, you can take 100ml of the Cream and add 100ml cold Spring Water, little by little, whisking all the while. As the last step, add approximately 2 drops of Preservative for each 10ml of water you added. For example, if you added 500ml extra water, you would need to add 100 drops of Preservative.

Good luck and enjoy making your creams and lotions!

 

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