74225

Vegetal

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What does this mean?

Inci:Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside

An excellent, eco friendly emulsifier for all skin types including sensitive skin and babies. The emulsifier enhances the hydration of the skin and enables actives to be absorbed into the skin more effectively.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

White, solid pellets with a very faint odour made from 100% vegetable origin.
 
It is a non ionic, oil in water (O/W) emulsifier made from the fatty alcohols of coconut or palm oil and the glucose from either corn, wheat or cassava.
 
It is compatible with anionic and cationic materials.
 
It enables the creation of very stable creams and butters that are light and elegant whilst feeling rich and creamy.
 
They spread easily on the skin and give an enhanced moisturising effect. This is because the oil droplets are very small and are trapped in an external water phase.
 
The emulsifier forms a cream with a liquid crystal structure on the skin which gives extended moisturisation of up to 5 hours in tests.
 
This liquid crystal structure contributes to improve the skin barrier function as a restructuring effect.
It also helps to assist active ingredients penetrate into the skin better as they penetrate slower and the skin can utilise them better that way.
 
The emulsifier is non irritant and non comedogenic. It is well tolerated even on sensitive skin so is an excellent choice for baby products.
 
It is tolerant to a wide pH range (3 to 12) and does not lose viscosity.
 
Often, acidic ingredients such as Aloe Vera Concentrate can make a cream thinner, but this is not a problem with Vegetal.
 
It has a good reputation as being non irritant and non sensitising.
 
It is readily biodegradable and also Ecocert approved. HLB 10. 270 - 290 mg KOH/g
 
The individual materials that make up Vegetal are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) here.

HOW TO USE IT

Skin Care
Vegetal could be considered as an active ingredient on its own right as it protects and restores the skin’s lipid layer, gives good moisturisation and assists transport of other actives into the skin.
 
Suitable for all skin types.
 
Very useful when wanting to use heavier fats like Shea Butter or Castor Oil as it will hold them well and feel elegant.
 
Even when made into a rich night cream, it still has good skin feel.
 
It allows the penetration of actives into the skin in a more controlled manner.
 
This gives a more desirable effect over a longer number of hours.
 
With the lower ratios of fat and emulsifier, it makes light and elegant lotions that are easily used in serums pumps.
 
Hair Care
No particular function with hair care products as it is not compatible with cationic ingredients.
 
Other
Use at 3% - 6%.
 
We have found 5% to be a good optimum.
 
The amount of fat is variable depending as to which fats are used and whether they are liquid oils or solid fats.
 
However, as a guideline, we suggest a fat stage of between 25%-40%.
You do not need to add extra thickeners like xanthan gum or stabilisers like cetearyl alcohol. However, if you do use solid fats such as shea butter or cocoa butter, the resulting cream will be a little thicker.
 
You may also find that with some ingredient combinations, the finished product thickens up a little more over the next 24 hours.
 
To use, the Vegetal is added to Stage 1 (fat stage) in a double boiler to heat to above 75°C.
 
Heat Stage 2 (water stage) to above 75°C, then add Stage 1 to Stage 2.
 
Keep the temperature above 75°C and use a stick blender (high shear) to emulsify the two stages. This will happen in just a few seconds so keep checking.
 
When you lift the stick blender out of the mixture, the mix running off the blender head should look like a thin cream.
 
If looks granular or like it is separating, it needs more high shear blending.
 
When it has emulsified, take it out of the double boiler and use a spatula to stir it whilst it is cooling down.
 
Do not continue to use the stick blender as this will destroy the liquid crystal structure that the emulsification has formed.
 
When it is under 40°C, add any stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients. Combine thoroughly, jar and label.

RECIPES & BLENDS

Excellent to use with actives for anti aging such as Eco Marine Algae Extract and Wu Zhu Extract as it allows the penetration of the actives into the skin in a more controlled manner.

Click on the links below to be directed to great recipes featuring Vegetal.