Emulsifier L | Natural Cosmetic Ingredients | Aromantic UK

Emulsifier L

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Inci:C14-22 Alkyl Alcohol, C12-20 Alkyl Glycoside

A very eco friendly, multifunctional and biodegradable surfactant/emulsifier than can make a wide range of textures from sprayable milks to thick butters. All the different textures will have an ultra soft, light and elegant skin feel, keeping the skin moisturised and supple.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

Cream coloured solid pellets that are of 100% non GM vegetable origin from glucose and fatty alcohols from palm and coconut oils.It is biodegradable.
 
It produces oil in water (O/W) emulsions with a very soft, light, pleasant feel.
 
It is capable of producing emulsion textures from sprayable milks and very light lotions right up to butters.The emulsions produced tend to be very white in colour and have an excellent skin feel.
 
The emulsions have a liquid crystal structure that has excellent skin compatibility and mimics the natural lipid layer of the skin’s cellular membrane.
This feels very light and elegant on the skin and helps to enhance the absorption of active materials.
 
It slows down transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and keeps the skin hydrated for up to 5 hours after application.
 
It is a nonionic surfactant that is compatible with anionic and cationic materials and is tolerant to a wide pH range of 3-11. HLB 10
 
The individual materials that make up Emulsifier L are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) here.

HOW TO USE IT

Skin Care
Suitable for all skin types but especially oily skin, as it leaves no greasy film behind. Use in creams, lotions, serums and butters.
 
Ideal to use in Men’s products as it has a good skin feel and gives continued moisturisation making it effective and simple to use. Use in eye serums and after shave lotions.
 
An excellent choice for a cleanser or makeup remover as it leaves no greasy film behind. Can be used as a spray cleanser, a lotion/milk cleanser or a rich and heavy buttery cleanser.
 
Very effective for use with Self tanning products and SPF products. As it has good pH stability, use for peeling lotions with AHA’s. Easy to use with Deodorants as it conditions the underarm area whilst being kind to the skin.
 
Makes excellent sprayable milks and baby products due to its softness and light feel. Excellent to use in Liquid Foundations as it holds the pigments well so that they are evenly dispersed and apply well to the skin.
 
Also very good at holding pigment such as, fillers and clays as well as sunscreen pigments.
 
Hair Care
Its lightness makes it a good choice for hair products as it makes ultra light lotions with no heavy build up on the hair shaft.
 
It is compatible with cationic materials which cling to the hair shaft making them very applicable to hair care products.
 
Other
Use from 0.5% to 5%.
 
To make a spray milk, use 0.5% to 1% Emulsifier L but with no more than 5% oils which should be thin oils.
 
Do not use solid fats like cocoa butter and add 0.2% xanthan gum into the oil stage to improve stability.
 
To make a very thin lotion, use 1% Emulsifier L but with no more than 5% oils.
For cleansing milks use 1% - 2% and use heavier oils like Castor Oil or some solid fats.
 
When using 1% - 3 %, add about 0.2% Xanthan Gum or EmulsiGel Eco to act as a stabiliser and add it to the fat stage.
 
For lotions use 3% - 4%.
 
At this ratio, no extra stabiliser is needed but you can combine with 1% or 2% Cetearyl Alcohol to give more substantive body or simply use thicker oils or solid fats like cocoa butter.
 
The maximum oil content is 20% As an easy rule of thumb, use a 1:5 ratio ie 1% Emulsifier L to 5% fats. 5% Emulsifier L to 25% fats. Of course, there will be more variabilities possible depending on which oils you use as well as which solid fats.
 
You can also add 1% to 2% Cetearyl Alcohol to make a much thicker product with even greater stability if needed.
 
To use the emulsifier correctly, add the Emulsifier L to the Stage 1 (fat stage) and heat in a double boiler until the temperature is over 75°C. The Stage 2 (water stage) should also be over 75°C.
 
Pour the fat stage into the water stage and use a stick blender (high shear) to emulsify the two stages.
 
This will happen in just 20 seconds or so, so keep checking. When you lift the stick blender out of the mixture, the mix running off the blender hood should look like a thin cream.
 
If it looks granular or like it is separating, it needs more high shear blending.
 
When it has emulsified, take it out of the double boiler and use a spatula to stir it whilst it is cooling down.You can use a cold water bath to speed up the cooling.
 
Do not continue to use the stick blender as this will destroy the liquid crystal structure that the emulsification has formed.
 
When it is under 40°C, add any Stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients. Combine thoroughly, jar and label

RECIPES & BLENDS

Excellent for making light peeling lotions as it is stable with AHA’s.
 
Use in spray hair conditioners as it is compatible with cationic materials.

Click on the links below to be directed to great recipes featuring Emulsifier L: