A non-ionic emulsifier which is palm free. Sourced from glucose that comes from either wheat, maize or manioc (also called cassava or yuca) along with oil from rapeseed colza oil. It has excellent eco credentials.
As an emulsifier, it can handle large amounts of even heavy oils like castor oil and solid fats like cocoa butter. In each case, the resulting cream is light and elegant and sinks into the skin easily. It can also be blended with our Vegetal emulsifier (to create a thicker / denser cream consistency) as well.
The creams produced with this emulsifier are a very bright white with a light texture that penetrates easily leaving a protected feeling on the skin, although the colour of the end product will vary slightly if more green or yellow/ orange oils are included in the formula.
Excellent to use for all skin types as it is hypogenic and non comedogenic. Especially popular for men’s grooming products due to its non shiny yet rich feel. Beneficial to oily and acne prone skin types as well as sensitive skin and baby products.
It creates an O/W emulsion which means that as the emulsion forms, molecules of oil are surrounded by many molecules of water which again, are surrounded by oil and then by water. As the emulsion cools, it creates a liquid crystal lamellar effect which even without any other actives, gives effective and continuous skin hydration for up to 5 hours. This strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier and helps to slow down Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).
The texture of an emulsion made with Emulsifier M can be firm enough for packaging into a jar as a cream yet also work in a pump bottle as a lotion.
Adding a thickener such as Xanthan Gum, Konjac Glucomannan Powder or Guar Gum to the Stage 2 (water stage) will help to create very smooth stable emulsions without compromising the fine texture of the product.
It makes very stable creams that tolerate a wide range of pH’s so is excellent for use with Aloe Vera Concentrate, Hyaluronic Acid and AHA’s.
Saponification Value mg KOH / g 210-230
Arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside, Glucose, Aqua
The individual materials that make up Emulsifier M are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing) and can be found here
The liquid crystal structure that is formed is ideal for allowing actives to penetrate the skin in a slower and more controlled manner. This allows the skin to uptake the actives more effectively and continuously over many hours. This is particularly beneficial in anti ageing cream and serums.
It gives long lasting hydration and protection to the skin which makes it a superb choice for body care products as the cream can have a lotion like light texture yet still hold a large amount of oils and butters that will keep the skin hydrated and flexible for most of the day without needing to be reapplied.
Excellent for anyone who does not want their products to leave shine on the skin. Use for mens products, oily skin products and acne prone skin products. It does not block the skin and form comedones which is essential for acne prone skin products.
As it is very stable across a wide range of pH values, it can manage very acidic products like AHA’s without damaging the emulsion structure. Use for peeling creams and lotions. Remember that your finished pH still needs to be in the correct range for your chosen preservative.
Using our colours and micas, you can formulate foundations which give a gentle veil like texture and a matt finish that lasts for many hours whilst actually moisturising the skin at the same time.
It makes excellent textures for hair masks and intensive treatment packs that treat and repair the hair shaft.
One of the aspects of this emulsifier is that it produces matte creams that do not leave shine. This is counter intuitive for most hair conditioners that would offer a high shine or gloss so it would be better to use Emulsifying Wax for such conditioners.
Use 3% to 5%.
Capable of holding 5% to 30% fats, depending on the nature of the lipids.
It can be added to either the Stage 1 (fat stage) or the Stage 2 (water stage). It needs to be heated to 85°C or more in a double boiler. It is important to stir the ingredients together with a spatula first, before using the stick blender.
Then stick blend for about 15 to 20 seconds and look at the cowl of the stick blender to see that emulsification has happened. It should look like a thin, single cream. Emulsification has then happened so allow it to cool whilst stirring with a spoon or spatula. Do not use the stick blender again and do not accelerate the cooling with a cold water bath. Accelerating the cooling stops the liquid crystal structure from forming. Slow cooling and gentle stirring are the key to a successful cream.
It should be noted that whilst it can emulsify large amounts of fats, the resulting texture should be modified by using a thickening agent such as Xanthan Gum, Konjac Glucomannan Powder or Guar Gum in the water stage. As has been explained, even heavy and solid fats like cocoa butter are transformed and their textures do not make the emulsion heavy. Therefore, to get thicker creams, use more thickening agents in the water stage.
Excellent to use with anti ageing actives in creams, lotions and serums.
This makes a smooth, rich cream that is easily absorbed and leaves no greasy residue despite the high percentage of Cocoa Butter.
Stage 1: (above 75°C)
15% Cocoa Butter
3% Apricot Kernel Oil
5% Emulsifier M
Stage 2: (above 75°C)
65.5% Boiling Spring Water
0.5% Xanthan Gum
Stage 3: (below 40°C)
1% Preservative 12
1% Essential Oils of your choice (we used Rose Geranium, Blood Orange & Sandalwood)
Heat the Stage 1 (fat stage) ingredients in a double boiler until melted.
Mix the glycerin and xanthan gum from the Stage 2 (water stage) ingredients together to make a slurry, then add the boiling spring water. Stick blend briefly to make a gel.
Add the Stage 1 (fat stage) to the Stage 2 (water stage) and stir thoroughly to combine the ingredients then stick blend for about 20 seconds until emulsified. It is important to stir the stages together before using the stick blender. Stop stick blending and remove from the heat.
Allow to cool naturally whilst stirring with a spoon or spatula continuously. Do not accelerate the cooling time in a water bath.
When the cream is below 40°C, combine the Stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients and then add to the cream. Stir thoroughly then jar and label.
Light Rejuvenating Cream
Stage 1: (above 75°C)
10% Grapeseed Oil
5% White Poppy Seed Oil
3% Pomegranate Seed Oil
5% Emulsifier M
Stage 2: (approximately 60°C)
63.75% Boiling Spring Water
3% Pomegranate Glycerol Extract
3% Wu Zh Extract
0.25% Konjac Glucomannan Powder
Stage 3: (below 40°C)
3% Blueberry Seed Oil
1% Vitamin E
1% EcoMarine Algae Extract
1% Preservative Eco Plus
1% Essential Oils of your choice (we used Lavender Absolute, Benzoin and Palmarosa)
Melt Stage 1 (fat stage) ingredients in a double boiler.
Sprinkle Konjac Glucomannan Powder over freshly boiled spring water with other Stage 2 (water stage) ingredients included and whisk in a double boiler on the heat until fully dissolved.
Then add Stage 1 (fat stage) ingredients to Stage 2 (water stage). Stir together with a spoon or spatula until you see they are fully mixed in.
Stick blend briefly until emulsification has occurred.
Remove from the heat and stir slowly while cooling naturally. Do not stick blend or accelerate the cooling during this stage.
Combine Stage 3 materials including Preservative Eco Plus and when the emulsion is below 40°C), add to the cream, then add essential oils. Stir thoroughly, jar and label.
For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.
These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations