Learn to make bespoke natural cosmetics, toiletries and beauty products with our flexible 1-day training modules! We supply all the raw materials, information and equipment you need to make your own natural creams, lotions, oils & more.
Learn to make bespoke natural cosmetics, toiletries and beauty products with our flexible 1-day training modules! We supply all the raw materials, information and equipment you need to make your own natural creams, lotions, oils & more.
Stage 3: (below 40°C) 3.5% Vitamin C 2% Vitamin E 1% Preservative 12 0.5% Elemi Essential Oil 100% Total
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Sold out
Method:
Heat Stage 1 in a stainless steel bowl on a double boiler until the temperature is above 75 °C.
Add Stage 2 ingredients into a stainless steel bowl in a double boiler until the temperature is above 75 °C.
Pour Stage 1 into Stage 2 and stir together first. Then use a stick blender to emulsify the two stages. This will happen in about 30 seconds, so keep checking. Ensure the temperature is above 75 °C. When you lift the stick blender out of the mixture, the mix running off the blender head should look like a thin cream. If it looks granular or like it is separating, it needs more high shear blending.
When it has emulsified, take it out of the double boiler and use a spatula to stir it whilst it is cooling down. You can use a cold water bath to speed up the cooling. Do not continue to use the stick blender, as this will destroy the liquid crystal structure that the emulsification has formed.
When it is under 40 °C, add the Stage 3 ingredients. Combine thoroughly, jar and label.
6 Responses
Aromantic Team
August 19, 2021
Thank you for your enquiry. Please see the below response from our Research and Development Team;
“It sounds like you did not get a proper emulsification happening. I have changed the details on the formulation procedure a little to make it easier. Stir the fat and water stages together first. This gives them a better chance of bonding. The power of the stick blender is not so relevant, and yours is fine. Do the first whiz, keeping the stick blender at the bottom for about 30 seconds. Don’t pump it up and down as this introduces air which delays emulsification. The part about looking like thin cream stays the same. I think it was this part that didn’t happen for you, and that is why it separated out.”
Sarah Yilmaz
August 19, 2021
I am fairly new to formulating and don’t have a lot of experience working with Vitamin C. I made this cream exactly as per the formula and reduced the pH to 6.9 (so within recommended range). Unfortunately the cream separated after a few days. I used a powerful stick blender (Dynamix) to emulsify the mixture but could the problem be I did not mix long enough? Any suggestions would be gratefully received as this is a great formulation. Thanks
Aromantic Team
February 17, 2021
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please see the below response from our research and development team;
“We have not tested this formulation with powdered Coenzyme Q10 as it is not an ingredient that we stock. Possibly, this may be the problem. Have you checked the pH of the other ingredients you are using?”
Millie
February 17, 2021
Everytime I’m trying to make this cream and I’m following formula and description with care for details, pH of final product is between 8-8.5 and I have no idea what goes wrong but each batch comes the same. I have vitamin C and coenzyme Q10 in powder form, vitamin E in liquid form. Could you please help me with this as I live this cream but I can’t get proper pH with it. Thank you
Aromantic Team
November 17, 2020
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please see the below response from our Research and Development Team;
“Cetearyl Alcohol is not an emulsifier in its own right but is used to help emulsifiers thicken therefore it won’t do what you are wanting it to do. If you look at the INCI for Vegetal you will see that it is made up of two ingredients one is Cetearyl Glucoside the other is Cetearyl Alcohol. The Cetearyl Glucoside part emulsifies the ingredients and the Cetearyl Alcohol part thickens and stabilises the emulsion. Vegetal creates emulsions with a lovely skin feel so is worth keeping in this recipe.
Preservative Eco Plus can be used instead of Preservative 12.
Elemi was included as it is the best essential oil for use on the eye area. If you want to use a different essential oil check the usage rate and that it is not contraindicated for the eye area."
Christine
November 17, 2020
Could I use Cetearyl Alcohol instead of Vegetal, and Preservative Eco Plus instead of Preservative 12 for this recipe? Also can Elemi Essential Oil be switched out for any essential oil? Thank you :)
These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.
For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.
Aromantic Team
August 19, 2021
Thank you for your enquiry. Please see the below response from our Research and Development Team;
“It sounds like you did not get a proper emulsification happening. I have changed the details on the formulation procedure a little to make it easier. Stir the fat and water stages together first. This gives them a better chance of bonding. The power of the stick blender is not so relevant, and yours is fine. Do the first whiz, keeping the stick blender at the bottom for about 30 seconds. Don’t pump it up and down as this introduces air which delays emulsification. The part about looking like thin cream stays the same. I think it was this part that didn’t happen for you, and that is why it separated out.”