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Method:
Heat Stage 1 in a stainless steel bowl on a double boiler until the temperature is above 75°C.
Add Stage 2 ingredients into a stainless steel bowl in a double boiler until the temperature is above 75°C.
Pour Stage 1 into Stage 2 and use a stick blender to emulsify the two stages. This will happen in just a few seconds so keep checking. Ensure the temperature is above 75°C. When you lift the stick blender out of the mixture, the mix running off the blender head should look like a thin cream. If it looks granular or like it is separating, it needs more high shear blending.
When it has emulsified, take it out of the double boiler and use a spatula to stir it whilst it is cooling down. You can use a cold water bath to speed up the cooling. Do not continue to use the stick blender as this will destroy the liquid crystal structure that the emulsification has formed.
When it is under 40°C, add the Stage 3 ingredients. Combine thoroughly, jar and label.
Everytime I’m trying to make this cream and I’m following formula and description with care for details, pH of final product is between 8-8.5 and I have no idea what goes wrong but each batch comes the same. I have vitamin C and coenzyme Q10 in powder form, vitamin E in liquid form. Could you please help me with this as I live this cream but I can’t get proper pH with it. Thank you
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please see the below response from our Research and Development Team;
“Cetearyl Alcohol is not an emulsifier in its own right but is used to help emulsifiers thicken therefore it won’t do what you are wanting it to do. If you look at the INCI for Vegetal you will see that it is made up of two ingredients one is Cetearyl Glucoside the other is Cetearyl Alcohol. The Cetearyl Glucoside part emulsifies the ingredients and the Cetearyl Alcohol part thickens and stabilises the emulsion. Vegetal creates emulsions with a lovely skin feel so is worth keeping in this recipe.
Preservative Eco Plus can be used instead of Preservative 12.
Elemi was included as it is the best essential oil for use on the eye area. If you want to use a different essential oil check the usage rate and that it is not contraindicated for the eye area."
Could I use Cetearyl Alcohol instead of Vegetal, and Preservative Eco Plus instead of Preservative 12 for this recipe? Also can Elemi Essential Oil be switched out for any essential oil? Thank you :)
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Aromantic Team
February 17, 2021
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please see the below response from our research and development team;
“We have not tested this formulation with powdered Coenzyme Q10 as it is not an ingredient that we stock. Possibly, this may be the problem. Have you checked the pH of the other ingredients you are using?”