Learn to make bespoke natural cosmetics, toiletries and beauty products with our flexible 1-day training modules! We supply all the raw materials, information and equipment you need to make your own natural creams, lotions, oils & more.
Learn to make bespoke natural cosmetics, toiletries and beauty products with our flexible 1-day training modules! We supply all the raw materials, information and equipment you need to make your own natural creams, lotions, oils & more.
This makes a smooth, rich cream that is easily absorbed and leaves no greasy residue despite the high percentage of Cocoa Butter.
Stage 1: (above 85°C) 15% Cocoa Butter
5% Emulsifier M 3% Apricot Kernel Oil
Stage 2: (above 75°C) 65.5% Boiling Spring Water 3% Glycerin 0.5% Xanthan Gum
Stage 3: (below 40°C) 3% Phytokeratin 3% EcoSilk MB 1% Preservative 12 1% Essential Oils of your choice 100% Total
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Method:
Heat the Stage 1 (fat stage) ingredients in a double boiler until melted.
Mix the glycerin and xanthan gum from the Stage 2 (water stage) ingredients together to make a slurry, then add the boiling spring water. Stick blend briefly to make a gel.
Add the Stage 1 (fat stage) to the Stage 2 (water stage) and stir thoroughly to combine the ingredients then stick blend for about 20-30 seconds until emulsified. It is important to stir the stages together before using the stick blender. Stick blend for about 20-30 seconds then stop and look at the hood of the blender. If you can see small particles then it needs to be stick blended for a further 15-20 seconds. Check again and it should look like a smooth, thin cream.
Allow to cool naturally whilst stirring with a spoon or spatula continuously. Do not accelerate the cooling time in a water bath and do not use the stick blender as it would now damage the emulsion.
When the cream is below 40°C, combine the Stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients and then add to the cream. Stir thoroughly then jar and label.
8 Responses
Aromantic Team
August 19, 2021
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please see the below response from our Research and Development Team;
“No it can’t, sorry. It needs to be a high shear speed, which you cannot get with a whisk. It needs to be either a stick blender or an homogeniser.”
Lucy Dine
August 19, 2021
Can a hand whisk or electric whisk be used instead of a stick blend?
Aromantic Team
January 13, 2021
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please see the below response from our Research and Development Team;
“Yes it can, but remember to check the finished pH to ensure it is in the correct working range for Preservative K.”
Sonam
January 13, 2021
I was wondering if preservative K could be used instead of preservative 12?
Aromantic Team
March 04, 2020
Hello Ester,
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please read the below response from our research and development team;
“Yes it does in a recipe that totals 100g. So, you weigh solids as well as liquids. 15% will be 15g and so on. The recipe will total 100% and will also total 100g. If you then want to make any changes like adding a new active material and the website guidelines say to use it at 4%, for example, you add 4g but remember that the total should still be 100 so it is most common to deduct 4g from the water stage of the recipe as well. Once you are happy that the 100g you have made is how you like it, it is easy to scale it up. Multiply the recipe by 3 to make 300g or simply add a zero to every number to make 1000g/lkg.”
Kind Regards
Aromantic Team
Esther
March 03, 2020
Hi, does 15% equivalent to 15gram please?
Aromantic Team
January 21, 2020
Good Afternoon Marisa,
Stick blend is another term for using a blending appliance like a hand blender for example.
Kind Regards
Aromantic Team
Marisa Dunn
January 21, 2020
Please can you tell me what is meant by a stick blend. Thank you.
These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.
For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.
Aromantic Team
August 19, 2021
Thank you for your enquiry.
Please see the below response from our Research and Development Team;
“No it can’t, sorry. It needs to be a high shear speed, which you cannot get with a whisk. It needs to be either a stick blender or an homogeniser.”