INCI Name

What is it?

A modern Emulsifier made according to ecological principles with no chemicals or solvents used, it is ideal for making Light Creams, Lotions & Conditioners. It is an Oil-in-Water emulsifier.

Ingredients sourced from:

The water-binding part of Vegetal is sourced from glucose, which is extracted from Corn and the fatty element of Vegetal is sourced from Coconut.

Benefits

• Safe emulsifier.
• Vegetal emulsions produce light creams that are easy to apply on the skin.
• Gives a soft, not sticky feeling.
• Good in acne creams because of its non clogging non-comedogenic properties.
• Very good to use in hair conditioners as it can take acidic raw materials.

Which products to use it in

• Light Creams and Lotions.
• Help-Emulsifier to harden glycerine soap.
• Exfoliating Creams.
• Hair Conditioners.

Water- or oil-soluble?

Vegetal is not dissolvable in water and glycerine, it is dissolvable when melted with vegetable oils, fats and waxes. It needs always to be added and heated in Fat Stage.

Recommended dosages and how to use in products

• In creams and lotions: 5%.Up to 2% Cetyl Alcohol can also be added.
• In hair conditioners: 1-3% NB! In Conditioner Recipes, Vegetal can be added in both oil- and water-soluble ingredients at the same time. You’ll find the Conditioner Recipe below contains 2% Cetyl Alcohol. If you are not adding Cetyl Alcohol to a Hair Conditioner Recipe, then you need to use 8-9% of Vegetal. If you’ve made your Hair conditioner and it is too runny you can whisk in up to 0.5% Xanthan Gum = just sprinkle over Conditioner and whisk in thoroughly.
• Vegetal has a melting point of Melting Point of 62 degrees Celsius.

Restrictions using Vegetal

• Vegetal shouldn’t be used in cleansing and peeling creams and lotions because the detergents will dissolve the emulsion.
• Don’t use with larger quantities of detergents as they also dissolve the emulsion.
• As vegetal was originally made for making creams and lotions with big cosmetic machinery you can find that making bigger quantities is a problem
• Don’t add air to the cream as then the cream becomes thinner, so always whisk at the bottom of the pan/bowl so you don’t introduce too much air into your cream or lotion.
• If you create a vegetal recipe in which the ingredients in the 3rd Stage are less than 10% of the overall recipe, then you have to add sensitive oils in the fat stage, instead of the usual third stage.
• Vegetal creams and lotions cannot be successfully reheated but you can try sprinkling on Xanthan gum and mix it into the ready-made cream/lotion using an electric hand blender- if the cream has become too runny

Storage

2 years (see label for actual best before date). Store cool and dark.

Related/Synergistic products

If you’re having a problem getting your cream stable/thick enough

If you’re having a problem getting your cream stable or thick enough, you can add up to 2% Cetyl Alcohol to the recipe (if not already in recipe!) the next time you make it. If you have already made the cream and it is not thick or stable enough, then whisk in up to 0.5% Xanthan Gum to already-made cream.  

If you find it easier

Replace Vegetal with Base Emulsifier if you find that easier. If you do, remember to use Cetyl Alcohol as well!

Recipe for Cream made with Vegetal

Dry/Mature Skin Cream (makes 100ml/g)

Fat Stage (75-80°C)

10ml/g Macadamia Nut Oil

6ml/g Avocado Oil

6ml/g Sunflower Oil

2g Cocoa Butter

5g Vegetal

Water Stage (75-80°C)

66ml Boiling Spring Water

3ml/g Glycerin

Third Stage (40-35°C)

2ml/g NFF Moisturiser

1ml/g Vitamin E Oil Simulated Natural (100%)

1ml/g/25 drops Preservative 12 OR

1ml/g/20 drops Preservative Eco

Fourth Stage (35-25°C)

0.5ml/g (10-12 drops) Essential Oils

Method for making Creams and Lotions containing Vegetal…

1. Fat Stage: Heat the Fat Stage ingredients in a double boiler until all of the ingredients have melted and the temperature has risen to 75 - 80°C.  There is no need to use a whisk at this stage.
2. Water Stage: After boiling the Spring Water, measure it according to the Recipe and pour it over the other ingredients, which you have put into a separate double boiler.
3. Stir the Water Stage ingredients together. Then allow the mixture to heat to 75-80°C.
4. When both Fat and Water Stages are over 75°C, remove both double boilers from the hob, keeping the Water Stage mixture hot by leaving it on the top half of the double boiler.
5. Now pour the melted Fat Stage into BOLD the Water Stage in a thin, steady stream, while slowly whisking the mixture from side to side for 5 minutes.  If necessary, use a spatula to scrape the mixture from the sides of the saucepan (or bowl).
6. Allow the mixture to cool, whisking it. Remember to stir on the bottom of the pan, so that you don’t introduce too much air (use a coil, or Delbor whisk, which makes that easier). You can speed up by the cooling process by replacing the hot water in the double boiler with very COLD water. In the process of cooling down, the mixture becomes a Cream and will reach its thickest consistency when it is has cooled down to room temperature.
7. Third Stage: Stir in the Third Stage ingredients when the mixture has cooled to under 40˚C.  
8. Fourth Stage: Continue stirring until the mixture has cooled to under 35°C, then thoroughly mix in the Essential Oils.
9. Pour the Cream into one big jar or smaller jars and label.

Recipes for Hair Conditioner containing Vegetal

Conditioner with Balsam for normal & dry hair (makes 100ml)

Stage 1 (75°C-80°C):

87ml Boiling Water

2ml/g Balsam Conditioner

1.5g Vegetal Emulsifier

2g Cetyl Alcohol

3ml Castor Oil

Stage 2 (40°C-35°C)        

1g/ml Vitamin E Oil

3g/ml D-Panthenol

1mlg/25drops Preservative 12 or

1ml/g/20 drops Preservative Eco

Stage 3 (under 35°C)    

0.5ml/g Lactic Acid

Stage 4 (under 35°C)    

12-15 drops of essential oils

Method for making Hair Conditioners...

1. Stage 1 (75-80˚C): Weigh all of the first four Stage 1 ingredients and blend them together in a bowl. Then add the boiling water. Leave it to heat up to 75°C in a bain-marie without whisking. When reaching the right temperature, then whisk known variously as a sauce, spiral or Delbor whisk and whisk for 5 minutes in the hot bain-marie. It’s important to whisk continuously, keeping the blend a colour that looks like skimmed milk throughout the whole process. It is also important that you use the whisk in the bottom of the bowl so you don’t introduce unnecessary air. If you do, then the product will become much runnier.
2. After 5 minutes, cool it down in a cold water basin as you whisk the mixture, keeping the skimmed milk colour.
3. As it cools down the product should become thicker and creamier until it reaches room temp. If not thick enough, put the mixture into a beaker and sprinkle, little by little, up to 0.5% Xanthan Gum and blend at the same time, using an Electric Stick Blender.
4. Stage 2 (40°C-35°C): Stir in the pre-weighed Stage 2 ingredients. NB To make sure that you get out everything, you can pour some of the conditioner mixture back into the beaker, stir with a spatula and pour back.
5. Stage 3 (under 35°C): Add according to recipe.
6. Stage 4 (Under 35°C): Add according to recipe.
7. Bottle and label.

Tips for making Hair Conditioners...

• You can add Colours for Water-Based Products (WB) to make the Conditioner look really good.
• When you make products and you are using small amounts of ingredients (such as 0.5g), it is a good idea to multiply the recipe to whole grams. This makes it easier to measure.

Good luck and enjoy making your creams and hair conditioners!

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