INCI Name

What is it?

It is a well-proven and safe help-Emulsifier/Stabiliser that does not go rancid and has been used since 1900 instead of sperm whale oil, which went rancid very easily. It has also been used in creams in place of beeswax, which can clog the skin, especially when used on the face.

Ingredients sourced from:

Benefits

• Cetyl Alcohol makes creams and lotions firmer and gives them consistency.
• It stabilises emulsification, helping to create an emulsion which is not easily separated.
• Doesn’t go rancid.
• Cetyl Alcohol can also be made from mineral oils. Aromantic only buys Cetyl Alcohol that has come from vegetable sources.
• Its cosmetic effect is as an emollient, making the skin soft and smooth.
• Qualified to use in organic creams and lotions.

Which products to use it in

• Stabilises Creams, Lotions AND Hair Conditioners, which contain Emulsifiers such as MF/VE, Base Emulsifier and Vegetal.
• Stabilises foam in Shampoos.

Water- or oil-soluble?

Cetyl Alcohol cannot be dissolved in water and glycerine, it dissolves in vegetable oils, fats, waxes and essential oils. It needs always to be added and heated in Fat Stage.

Recommended dosages

• Lotions: 0.5%
• Oily skin creams:  1-1.5%
• Normal skin creams: 1.5-2%
• Dry skin creams: 2-3%
• Vegetal and Base Emulsifier creams: Up to 2%
• To stabilise hair conditioners:  1 – 3%
• Conversion information: 1g of Cetyl Alcohol=approx. 2ml

Restrictions using Cetyl Alcohol

• Beware that too much Cetyl Alcohol in a cream can give ‘whitening’ on the skin. Too much of it (over 5%) gives a dry, waxy and heavy cream that creates a lot of whitening.
• As the melting point is around 48 Deg C you can possibly experience that the cream or lotion sometimes becomes grainy when cooling down the cream too fast. This could be caused by the Cetyl Alcohol being thickened before the other raw materials like cocoa butter or MF and VE. The melting point of VE is 61 Deg C. If you find this as a problem, let the cream cool down more slowly next time.
• Some people, but only very few, can have an allergic reaction to Cetyl Alcohol, such as redness, stinging, burning or rashes. If this is the case then you need products without Cetyl Alcohol.

Storage

2 years (see label for actual best before date). Store cool and dark.

Recipes for Creams made with MF & VE Emulsifiers and Cetyl Alcohol

See VE and MF Emulsifiers product listings for free recipes.

Troubleshooting Creams/Lotions

An MF/VE/Cetyl Alcohol cream will more or less always be successful as long as you follow these guidelines:

• Follow the recipe.
• Heat it to above 75 Deg C.
• Mix it when heated for 5 minutes both stages together.
• Always fat stage into water stage as it is an oil-in-water emulsion.

If the cream turns out to be more like a lotion:

• You possibly measured wrongly.
• It wasn’t heated to over 75 Deg C.
• Too much detergent was added if you were making a peeler
• Or too many tinctures were added

If the cream has become a lotion (and you were trying to make a cream!) you can save it by:

• Reheating the whole cream and if you have measured right you will make your cream. Make sure that the cream heats to over 75 Deg C and mix it for 5 minutes before cooling when you reheat the cream.
• If you realise that you added too little of the either products MF/VE or Cetyl Alcohol, add the approximate amount that you that was left out and reheat and you will make your cream.
• If the cream is just a little too runny you can just whisk with an electric blender for a few minutes in the cream/lotion and just that can thicken it up.
• If the cream is still a little too runny you can sprinkle up to 0.5% Xanthan gum over the cream and at the same time whisk with an electric blender. Sprinkle little by little until you get the right consistency.
• Buy a better set of scales – don’t use kitchen scales that can only go down to 5g.

Good luck and enjoy making your creams and lotions!

 

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