It is a clear, colourless to very slightly yellow liquid that is a minimum of 75% panthenol and stabilised with 1% pantalactone.
Panthenol, Aqua, D Pantolactone
According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing), the functions of Panthenol are:
Antistatic, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning
To view more information, visit the Cosing Database here.
Panthenol is often called Provitamin B5 and is widely used in the cosmetics world because it is so effective when used at sufficient levels (many commercial products have minute amounts in just so it can appear on the label).
Once in the skin, it rapidly converts to vitamin B5 (Pantothenic Acid) which is a major constituent of Coenzyme A , which has a key role in the repair mechanism of cells and tissues.
It soothes and softens skin by locking in moisture thus preventing dehydration and dry skin and reducing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). It maintains the elasticity of the skin.
It also works with DMAE in the body to produce acetylcholine which tones and firms the skin.
It promotes the stimulation of epithelialization and granulation in the skin whilst minimising itching. This is excellent for any skin repair situation as it also smoothes roughness and dryness. Its anti inflammatory effect is also useful in eczema prone skin products.
Suitable for all skin types and especially age defying and mature skin products.
In cuticle gels, it penetrates the top layer of the nails and holds moisture there to make the nail bed healthier.
Excellent to use on sensitive scalps as it soothes and moisturises. Suitable for all hair types.
On the hair shaft, it doesn't convert to vitamin B5 as the hair does not have living cells but it is still a valuable addition to hair products as it coats, lubricates and protects the hair shaft, softening and moisturising it, making hair easy to handle and style.
Makes hair stronger and improves damaged and brittle hair. It coats split ends to stop them getting worse.
Makes hair tangle free and easier to comb without weighing it down or making it greasy.
Adds lustre and shine to the hair by attaching to the keratin on the hair shaft.
A Vitamin B5 deficiency can lead to hair loss so the conversion of Panthenol in the scalp will help to reduce hair loss and stimulate hair growth.
As it binds to the hair shaft on contact, it works well in both shampoos and hair conditioners.
Use 2% to 5%.
Water soluble so cannot be used in oil only products.
Heat sensitive so should be used in Stage 3 (below 40°C) when making creams and lotions.
Excellent in after care gels for hair removal or waxing.
Essential to add to after sun preparations.
Lotion for Oily Skin
Stage 1 (above 75°C)
5% Hazelnut Oil
5% Prickly Pear Seed Oil
3% Thistle Oil
4% Emulsifier L
2% Cetearyl Alcohol
Stage 2 (above 75°C)
69% Boiling Orange Blossom (Neroli) Water
4% Comfrey Glycerol Extract
Stage 3 (below 40°C)
2% Vitamin E
0.5% Vitamin A Palmitate
1.5% Anti Acne Active Formula
1% Preservative 12
0.75% Palmarosa Essential Oil
0.25% Geranium Essential Oil
Heat the fat stage to above 75°C in a double boiler.
Then add stage 1 (fat stage) to stage 2 (water stage).
Blend with a stick blender for a few seconds until you see emulsification has happened.
Then immerse the container into a pan of cold water and stir with a spatula whilst cooling down to below 40°C.
Add remaining stage 3 ingredients and combine thoroughly. Jar and label.
After Sun Gel - After Waxing Gel
Stage 1: (room temperature)
2% Brazil Nut Oil
1% Pomegranate Seed Oil
Stage 2: (room temperature)
1% Konjac Glucomannan Powder
5% Comfrey Glycerol Extract
83% Boiled Spring Water
Stage 3: (below 40°C)
1% Preservative 12
0.75% Spearmint Essential Oil
0.25% Roman Chamomile Essential Oil
Combine the Konjac Glucomannan Powder with the Comfrey Glycerol Extract to make a paste. Then add the boiled spring water and mix with a stick blender to make a gel.
Add Stage 1 (fat stage) ingredients and mix again.
Ensure the temperature is below 40°C and add the Stage 3 (cool down) ingredients. Jar and label.
For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.
These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.
Traditional Aromatherapy Uses
Traditionally used by qualified aromatherapists, honey has been a long established protocol for treating wounds. Panthenol is found in honey. Manuka honey in particular has an excellent reputation as a wound healer because it is exceptionally antimicrobial.
Panthenol was developed in the 1940s and was even used in hair products right away. It was a mainstay during the Second World War especially when it was used with allantoin for treating wounds.
As it was found that it accelerated wound healing very fast. In the 1960’s in gained favour for a brief period amongst tattoo artists because the tattoos would heal much faster. However, they soon realised that it encourage new skin cells to form that took away the definition and colour brightness from the artwork and so fell out of favour.