A pale yellow to beige coloured powder with a fishy odour which disappears once it has been blended with water. It isderived from guar beans which are a legume and commonly eaten as food in India. The beans are guaranteed Non GMO and the resulting Guar Gum Powder is guaranteed free from animal testing.
The endosperm of the guar bean is ground and sifted in several stages until there is a fine powder called guaran. This is then quaternised to make Guar Gum Powder.
It is a natural and renewable resource that is non toxic and biodegradable.
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing), the functions of Guar Gum Powder are:
Anti Static, Film Forming, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling
To view more information, visit the Cosing Database here.
It thickens water based ingredients and gives a very elegant skin feel to the finished product.
The guar gum is cationic (has a positive charge) which attaches itself to the anionic (negatively charged) skin to form a conditioning and protective polymeric film.This gives a very elegant skin feel.
Can be used to stabilise creams and lotions that have a lot of actives that may be be challenging to the emulsion. It will also add some thickness to the finished product.
It can hold a small amount of oil in suspension without settling which is an idea way to get Omega 3 rich oils into a product without heating them.
The guar gum is cationic (has a positive charge) which attaches itself to the anionic (negatively charged) hair shaft to form a conditioning and protective polymeric film. This means it is protective to the hair whilst keeping it hydrated and flexible. Unlike many commercial conditioners, it leaves no polymer build up.
Can be used in shampoos, hair conditioners and hair packs where it not only provides thickness and texture to the product but also improves hair combing and brushing without tangling and reduces breakage.
Its film forming ability also makes it substantive to the hair giving it some greater volume.
Use at 0.5% to 2% or higher if needed.
Water soluble so cannot be used with oil only products.
It starts to hydrate very readily with water but can take up to 1 hour to become fully hydrated. You may find that it starts to hydrate so quickly that it forms lumps. These can be whisked out but could also mix the guar gum with a little glycerine or a vegetable oil first. This slows down the hydration initially and helps to prevent lumps.
Once it is fully hydrated, the gel can be heated to 50°C but do ensure that it is quite fluid. Very thick gels may be prone to scorching.
If the guar gum is added to cold water and then heated in a bain marie, it makes an exceptional gel that is very smooth and feels superb!
Stable between pH 5 and 9. If used at pH 3, you can feel some “pilling” as it starts to break down. This can be modified by cross matrixing with another thickening agent.
It can be cross matrixed with several other thickening agents like Konjac Glucomannan, Xanthan Gum and Cellulose. Make each gel separately before blending them together. This makes a stronger gel matrix.
Dry Hair Shampoo
Stage 1: (room temperature)
15% Beta T
1.5% Essential Oils of your choice
Stage 2: (room temperature)
61% Boiling Spring Water
0.5% Guar Gum
3% Omega Fat Restoring Agent
Stage 3: (room temperature)
1% Preservative Eco
Combine Alpha and Beta T together and they will start to thicken. Then stir in the essential oils thoroughly.
Blend the Omega with the Guar Gum crushing the powder into the liquid. Then stir in to the Stage 1 mixture.
Slowly add the Stage 2 hot water and stir whilst it thickens. Do not create any foam.
Add the Stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients and stir gently to combine thoroughly.
Check pH to be between 5 and 7. Bottle and label.
Revitalising Face Mask
This product can be applied and left for 10 minutes and then rinsed off. It can also be used in the bath where a hot flannel will helps the ingredients to penetrate better before rinsing off. It can be also be used as a leave on product at night or before day products.
Stage 1: (room temperature)
2% Pomegranate Seed Oil
2% Remodelling Intense
1% Algaktiv Zen
Stage 2: (above 75°C)
92% Orange Blossom (Neroli) Water
2% Guar Gum Powder
1% Preservative 12
Use a stick blender to combine the Stage 2 (water stage) ingredients until smooth. Then heat in a double boiler to about 50°C by which time it will have thickened up well.
Blend the Stage 1 (fat stage) ingredients and stir thoroughly into the Stage 2 gel.
Jar and label.
For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.
These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.
The word guar comes from the Sankrit language and means “food for cows”.
The largest use for guar gum comes from the food industry where it is used in cakes, ice creams and sauces to name just a few items. As it is gluten free, it is also used as a flour replacement in baked goods.
Its ability to expand and hold liquids means it has also been used in weight reduction foods as it gives a sensation of fullness in the stomach for longer.