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(EX. VAT) 30 ml £4.97
Price: (inc. VAT) £5.96

AHA Natural Fruit Extract

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A concentrated liquid blend of five botanical extracts providing a natural source of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, which can be used in a cream, lotion or gel to help promote skin renewal.

It is a blend of alpha hydroxy acids extracted from blueberries, sugarcane, oranges, lemons and sugar maple. The extraction process reduces colour and odour and concentrates the active principles. The extracts are then blended and concentrated even further by vacuum distillation.

No alcohol is used in the extraction process. The plant materials are extracted individually with water at specific pH levels and temperatures.

Inci:

Aqua, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract

The individual materials that make up AHA Natural Fruit Extract are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing) here.

AHA Natural Fruit Extract contains the following concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids:
Lactic Acid (28-32%) which is a highly effective moisturiser.

Glycolic Acid (12-17%) which gives immediate skin softening.

Citric Acid (2-6%) which stimulates collagen synthesis.

Malic Acid (1% max) which boosts skin elasticity.

Tartaric Acid (1% max) which also boosts skin elasticity.

When combined like this, the AHA's also weaken the bonds that hold dead skin together. When these bonds are weakened, the dead skin cells can be shed from the skin easier which results in fresher, smoother and younger looking skin. It also means that any other actives or skin nutrition such as vegetable oils, will be absorbed better and will be penetrating the fresher skin and not the dead skin cells. This way, they will be much better absorbed and utilised.

Skin Care
Regular daily use stimulates cell renewal so use in daily cleansers and toners.

Its peeling effect allows active materials to penetrate the skin more effectively making it a good choice in pre conditioning facial treatments.

Moisturises, soothes and softens the skin which is beneficial in daily use skin products like lotions and creams.

It stimulates collagen synthesis and increases the elasticity of the skin which is very desirable in night creams and anti aging water based serums.

Brightens the skin, revitalises dull and lifeless skin when used in face masks.

It can improve appearance hyperpigmentation when used in gels. This can also help with shaving marks and skin blemishes on legs when used in daily leg lotions.

Hair Care
Excellent to use in exfoliating shampoos and clarifying hair conditioners.

It works well in hair masks to clear build of of other products on the scalp.

Other
It is water soluble. Add in the cool down stage (Stage 3) under 40°C when used in gels, creams and lotions.

It cannot be used in oil only products.

Use at 1-2% for daily products and between 5-15% for more intensive, specific treatments.

The pH is between 4-5. Check your finished pH to ensure it is skin compatible.

Suggested Blends
It is usually best to combine with other ingredients that are calming and soothing to the skin.

If it is to be used in a rinse off product like a face mask, do not bother to combine with other materials that are more beneficial when left on the skin.

Cautions/Contraindications
Remember that adding higher amounts of an acid material may make a cream or lotion runnier.

Exfoliating Cleanser
Stage 1: (above 75°C)
9% Sweet Almond Oil
9% Castor Oil
2% Cocoa Butter
3% VE Emulsifier
2.5% Cetearyl Alcohol

Stage 2: (above 75°C)
5% MF Emulsifier
60% Boiling Spring Water
5% Sorbitol

Stage 3: (below 40°C)
2% AHA Natural Fruit Acid
1% Vitamin E
1% Preservative 12
0.25% Ylang Ylang Essential Oil
0.25% Lavender Essential Oil
100% Total 


Daily Body Lotion
Stage 1: (above 75°C)
3% Tomato Seed Oil
3% Cocoa Butter
3% Emulsifying Wax 

Stage 2: (above 75°C)
81% Boiling Spring Water
2% Glycerine 

Stage 3: (below 40°C)
3% EcoSilk
2% AHA Natural Fruit Acid
1% Vitamin E
1% Preservative 12
1% Essential Oils of your choice
100% Total 

Method (applies to both recipes listed above):

Weigh all Stage 1 ingredients into a small stainless steel bowl and place into a saucepan of boiling water (double boiler/bain marie). Bring up to a temperature over 75°C. 

When the Stage 1 is over 75°C, weigh and add the Stage 2 ingredients together in a separate larger stainless steel bowl. 

Swap the bowls over so that the larger bowl is in the double boiler.

Pour the Stage 1 (Fat Stage) ingredients into the larger bowl (Stage 2) and stir gently without creating air bubbles. Make sure the temperature is over 75°C and continue to stir for 5 minutes. 

After 5 minutes, remove the bowl from the double boiler and put it into a pan of cold water to cool down quickly.

Keep stirring all the time. When the cream or lotion is under 40°C, add the remaining Stage 3 ingredients. Combine thoroughly, jar and label.
 
Check out our video recipe for this Exfoliating Cleanser
 
Thumbnail-EXFOLIATING-cleanser.png

For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.

These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.

Historical Information
People have always used acids in some form or another for exfoliating the skin. Cleopatra was known for taking milk baths where the lactic acid would help to soften her skin.

In the 1970’s Glycolic acid peels were overused and applied quite badly which left peels with a bit of a bad reputation. This modern blend of natural fruit acid peels is a much safer way to get good results.

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