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Emulsifier L image
(EX. VAT) 100 g £7.79
Price: (inc. VAT) £9.35

Emulsifier L

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A very eco friendly, multifunctional and biodegradable surfactant/emulsifier than can make a wide range of textures from  sprayable milks to thick butters. All the different textures will have an ultra soft, light and elegant skin feel, keeping the skin moisturised and supple.

Cream coloured solid pellets that are of 100% non GM vegetable origin from glucose and fatty alcohols from palm and coconut oils. It is biodegradable.

It produces oil in water (O/W) emulsions with a very soft, light, pleasant feel. It is capable of producing emulsion textures from sprayable milks and very light lotions right up to butters. The emulsions produced tend to be very white in colour and have an excellent skin feel.

The emulsions have a liquid crystal structure that has excellent skin compatibility and mimics the natural lipid layer of the skin’s cellular membrane. This feels very light and elegant on the skin and helps to enhance the absorption of active materials.

It slows down transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and keeps the skin hydrated for up to 5 hours after application.

It is a nonionic surfactant that is compatible with anionic and cationic materials and is tolerant to a wide pH range of 3-11.

HLB 10

Inci:

C14-22 Alkyl Alcohol, C12-20 Alkyl Glycoside
The individual materials that make up Emulsifier L are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing) here.
Skin Care
Suitable for all skin types but especially oily skin, as it leaves no greasy film behind. Use in creams, lotions, serums and butters.

Ideal to use in Men’s products as it has a good skin feel and gives continued moisturisation making it effective and simple to use. Use in eye serums and after shave lotions.

An excellent choice for a cleanser or makeup remover as it leaves no greasy film behind.

Can be used as a spray cleanser, a lotion/milk cleanser or a rich and heavy buttery cleanser.

Very effective for use with Self tanning products and SPF products.

As it has good pH stability, use for peeling lotions with AHA’s.

Easy to use with Deodorants as it conditions the underarm area whilst being kind to the skin.

Makes excellent sprayable milks and baby products due to its softness and light feel.

Excellent to use in Liquid Foundations as it holds the pigments well so that they are evenly dispersed and apply well to the skin. Also very good at holding pigment such as, fillers and clays as well as sunscreen pigments.

Hair Care
Its lightness makes it a good choice for hair products as it makes ultra light lotions with no heavy build up on the hair shaft.

It is compatible with cationic materials which cling to the hair shaft making them very applicable to hair care products.

Other
Use from 0.5% to 5%.

To make a spray milk, use 0.5% to 1% Emulsifier L but with no more than 5% oils which should be thin oils. Do not use solid fats like cocoa butter and add 0.2% xanthan gum into the oil stage to improve stability.

To make a very thin lotion, use 1% Emulsifier L but with no more than 5% oils. Do not use solid fats like cocoa butter and add 0.2% xanthan gum into the oil stage to improve stability.

For cleansing milks use 1% - 2% and use heavier oils like Castor Oil or some solid fats. When using 1% - 3 %, add about 0.2% Xanthan Gum or EmulsiGel Eco to act as a stabiliser and add it to the fat stage.

For lotions use 3% - 4%. At this ratio, no extra stabiliser is needed but you can combine with 1% or 2% Cetearyl Alcohol to give more substantive body or simply use thicker oils or solid fats like cocoa butter. The maximum oil content is 20%

As an easy rule of thumb, use a 1:5 ratio ie 1% Emulsifier L to 5% fats.

5% Emulsifier L to 25% fats. Of course, there will be more variabilities possible depending on which oils you use as well as which solid fats.

You can also add 1% to 2% Cetearyl Alcohol to make a much thicker product with even greater stability if needed.

To use the emulsifier correctly, add the Emulsifier L to the Stage 1 (fat stage) and heat in a double boiler until the temperature is over 75°C. The Stage 2 (water stage) should also be over 75°C.

Pour the fat stage into the water stage and use a stick blender (high shear) to emulsify the two stages. This will happen in just a few minutes so keep checking. When you lift the stick blender out of the mixture, the mix running off the blender hod should look like a thin cream. If it looks granular or like it is separating, it needs more high shear blending.

When it has emulsified, take it out of the double boiler and use a spatula to stir it whilst it is cooling down. You can use a cold water bath to speed up the cooling. Do not continue to use the stick blender as this will destroy the liquid crystal structure that the emulsification has formed.

When it is under 40°C, add any Stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients. Combine thoroughly, jar and label.

Suggested Blends
Excellent for making light peeling lotions as it is stable with AHA’s.

Use in spray hair conditioners as it is compatible with cationic materials.

Cautions/Contraindications
None.
Mediterranean Hair Mayonnaise
The oils in this formulation are all excellent for hair but they are just as good for the skin as well. That makes this product a delight to use on the face and body as well. Try it out!
Stage 1: (above 75°C)
5% Argan Oil
8% White Poppy Seed Oil
6% Avocado Butter
1% Cetearyl Alcohol
4% Emulsifier L

Stage 2: (above 75°C)
72% Boiling Spring Water

Stage 3: (below 40°C)
2% Vitamin E
1% Preservative 12
1% Essential Oils of your choice
100% Total

Method:

Heat the fat stage to above 75°C in a double boiler. Then add stage 1 (fat stage) to stage 2 (water stage).

Blend with a stick blender for a few minutes until you see emulsification has happened.

Then immerse the container into a pan of cold water and stir with a spatula whilst cooling down to below 40°C.

Add remaining stage 3 ingredients and combine thoroughly. Jar and label.


Top To Toe Conditioner
This spray lotion can be used on your hair as a conditioner, to soften the frizz, as an aftershave soother, as a facial moisturiser, as a body lotion and as a light hand cream. Tomato Seed Oil is so very versatile.
Stage 1: (above 75°C)
8% Tomato Seed Oil
1% Cetearyl Alcohol
1% Emulsifier L

Stage 2: (above 75°C)
75% Boiling Spring Water

Stage 3: (below 40°C)
5% Phytokeratin
6% D-Panthenol
2% Vitamin E
1% Preservative 12
1% Essential Oils of your choice
100% Total

Method:

Heat the fat stage to above 75°C in a double boiler. Then add stage 1 (fat stage) to stage 2 (water stage).

Blend with a stick blender for a few minutes until you see emulsification has happened.

Then immerse the container into a pan of cold water and stir with a spatula whilst cooling down to below 40°C.

Add remaining stage 3 ingredients and combine thoroughly. Jar and label.


For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.

These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.
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