Small white flakes or pastilles with a slight ammonia odour that disappears when used in the product. It is an emulsifier of natural vegetable origin as it is made from palm oil.
It is an non ethoxylated, cationic emulsifier that produces an oil in water (O/W) emulsion that also has a conditioning effect on the hair.
It does not make a stable cream emulsion when used on its own. It needs to be combined with another emulsifier.
It is alkaline initially but when it is acidified by the addition of an acid, it forms a cationic amine salt. The pH needed for this reaction is between 4.5 and 5.5. This is very conditioning to the hair with the additional benefit that it rinses very easily away giving no build up on the hair. This makes for excellent conditioning and finishing rinses.
It can also function as a co-emulsifier when combined with other emulsifiers. This takes specialist knowledge so we only advise doing this if you are already experienced in formulating. We cannot offer any technical support for using it as a co-emulsifier due to the amount of potential variables.
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearic Acid
The individual materials that make up Conditioner Emulsifier are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing) here.
In skin care creams and lotions, it can be combined with other emulsifiers to act as a stabiliser. It leaves the skin feeling soft, well hydrated and smooth.
In shower gels, it can be added to the hot water to melt it. The water should be acidified to activate the emulsifier’s conditioning properties (add 0.3% of Aromantic Lactic Acid per 1% of Conditioner Emulsifier used OR 0.17% Citric Acid per 1% of Conditioner Emulsifier used). There is no fat or oil used at all. Let this cool and then add whichever cleansing surfactants you are using Stir gently to thoroughly combine and re check the pH as the surfactants may have made it more alkaline. Add more acidifier if needed. Add any other actives or essential oils you wish and check the pH again. The final pH of the product should be between 4.5 and 5.5.
It can also be used as a co-emulsifier with other emulsifiers such as Emulsifying Wax. There are many variables to take into account when doing this so we recommend that you use it this way only if you are experienced at formulating or wish to experiment. We do not offer any formulations for using it this way.
When the emulsifier is acidified, it makes will charge positively and become a cationic surfactant. This means it will bond very well with the hair shaft (which is negatively charged) thus giving the conditioning effect.
It will wrap around the hair shaft making it soft and easy to style and cancel out the negative charge caused by shampooing.
As an anti static agent, this will also eliminate flyaway hair by smoothing the cuticle and boosting the shine.
It gives slip to the hair without build up as it is soluble in the water stage so rinses away cleanly. This helps to remove previous product buildup.
It prevents tangling of the hair when combing or brushing both wet and dry. The hair is left with an elegant satin like feel that does not weigh it down.
Gives extra volume to thin, flyaway hair improving the manageability.
Very moisturising for damaged processed hair whether damaged by colour or perming.
Restores brittle hair and split ends to healthy looking hair.
Use at 4% to 5%.
Oil soluble so add to the heated Stage 1 (fat stage) when making creams and lotions. Melting point is 70°C - 75°C.
Dispersible in hot water so can be added to the water stage used when making shampoos for a rich, silky finish. The water stage also needs to be acidified to get the emulsifier to work properly so;
add 0.3% of Aromantic Lactic Acid per 1% of Conditioner Emulsifier used
0.17% Citric Acid per 1% of Conditioner Emulsifier used.
The resulting pH should be between 4.5 and 5.5
The emulsifier does not respond well to being overheated as it starts to emulsify as soon as it is melted. Therefore, work quickly to prevent it being overheated.
A shampoo or a hair conditioner should have a pH suitable to that of the hair, which is slightly acidic , in order to tighten the keratin layers on the hair shaft.
For a shampoo: pH5 to pH7 is good.
For a shower gel: pH 5 to pH7.5
For hair care detangler: pH4.5 to pH5. The lower the pH, the higher the cationic attraction to the hair.
These are general rules but be aware that when using Conditioner Emulsifier, if the final pH goes outside of 4.5 to 5.5, there is a chance that the emulsifier will re- crystallise and lose its hair conditioning ability, so it is best to stick within the recommended pH.
The final thickness of the finished product can take a few hours to appear so just leave the finished product to thicken up in their containers.
Please note that this is a complex material to work with and we recommend only experienced formulators to use it. As such, we can offer no further formulating advice or technical support when using it.
Use for hair conditioners and hair masks.
Use in cleansing conditioners - it will gently clean hair and freshen it up without stripping.
Use in conditioning and two in one shampoos.
Use in serums and balms for the hair.
Use in conditioning shower gels.
Use in moisturising creams and facial serums.
Use in shaving creams.
Shower Gel / Conditioning Two in One Shampoo
Stage 1: (room temperature)
Stage 2: (room temperature)
5% Conditioner Emulsifier
1.5% Lactic Acid
56% Boiling Spring Water
Stage 3: (below 40°C)
1.5% Essential Oils of your choice
1% Preservative Eco
Combine the Stage 1 ingredients and they will start to thicken.
Lower the pH in Stage 2 with Lactic Acid or Citric Acid and add the Conditioner Emulsifier. It should melt quickly and does not like to be overheated so work quickly.
Pour the Stage 2 mix into the Stage 1 mix and stir gently to avoid making any foam.
Start cooling the mix down and when it has cooled down to below 40°C, add the Stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients and mix thoroughly. Bottle and label.
Shea and Argan Hair Conditioner
This appears very liquid when bottled but it does thicken up overnight. This makes it easier to get into bottles.
Stage 1 (above 75°C)
5% Shea Butter
5% Argan Oil
3% Emulsifying Wax
Stage 2: (above 75°C)
2% Conditioner Emulsifier
1.5% Lactic Acid
79.5% Boiling Spring Water
Stage 3: (below 40°C)
1% Preservative 12
1% Essential Oils of your choice
Add Stage 1 (fat stage) ingredients into a stainless steel bowl and place over a saucepan of boiling water (bain marie). Bring up to a temperature of over 75°C.
When the Stage 1 is over 75°C, add the Stage 2 (water stage) ingredients to a larger stainless steel bowl. Swap the bowls over so the larger bowl is in the double boiler.
Pour the Stage 1 ingredients into the Stage 2 ingredients and stir gently without creating air bubbles. Ensure the mix is still over 75°C and stir continually for 5 minutes.
After 5 minutes, remove bowl from the double boiler and put into a pan of cold water to cool it down quickly. Keep stirring all the time.
When the cream or lotion is below 40°C add the remaining stage 3 ingredients. Combine thoroughly, bottle and label.
For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.
These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.