Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is a mild and gentle solid surfactant derived from coconuts. It has been in use for a number of years but more recently has become well known due to the increasing popularity of solid shampoo bars also known as Syndet Shampoo Bars.
As SCI Solid Surfactant has limited solubility in water it may recrystallise if used in a liquid shampoo.
SCI Solid Surfactant performs well in hard water areas and is biodegradable. It has a minimum of 82% active ingredient and a pH of 6 so formulae do not usually need pH adjusting.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
The individual materials that make up Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate are listed on the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (Cosing) and can be found here
Primarily used in rinse off cleansing products.
Use up to 50% as a primary surfactant in Syndet Shampoo Bars.
For liquid shampoos a ratio of 3 Beta T to 1 SCI is suggested.
Use 1% to 50%.
Heat stable. Melt chips combined with secondary surfactant such as Beta T, in a double boiler over low, consistent heat, stirring repeatedly. We have found it can take some considerable time to melt the chips as they are fairly thick.
SCI Solid Surfactant can be ground in a coffee grinder to break up the chips and make them easier to melt.
Works well when combined with Beta T.
When working with SCI Solid Surfactant wear a proper safety mask and do not breathe in the dust as this can irritate the mucous membranes.
Syndet Shampoo Bar (makes 100gm)
Stage 1: (above 60°C)
50% SCI Solid Surfactant
20% Beta T
Stage 2: (above 70°C)
12% Emulsifying Wax
6% Cocoa Butter
3% Cetearyl Alcohol
Stage 3: (below 40°C)
2% Essential Oils of your choice
1% Preservative Eco Plus
Break the SCI Solid Surfactant chips into smaller pieces or crush in an electric coffee grinder.
Add Beta T to the SCI in a double boiler. (please wear a face mask when handling the SCI).
Simmer over a low - medium consistent heat stirring regularly as the SCI melts. This may take some time, so be patient while it happens.
Melt Stage 2 ingredients together in a double boiler.
Add melted Stage 2 to Stage 1 ingredients and stir together until fully combined.
Allow to cool to below 40°C then add Stage 3 ingredients. (You will need to work these ingredients in well as the mixture sets fairly quickly as it cools).
You may add a little Pearlescent colour or Natural Pigment to the melted Stage 2 ingredients or a few drops of Non Water Based colours to the Stage 3 ingredients.
When all ingredients are fully combined press the mixture into a mould. Allow to set up (placing the mould in the ‘fridge will help speed this process). Unmould and leave exposed to the air in a safe place to harden up. This may take several days.
How to use a shampoo bar:
Wet hair, rub the hardened shampoo bar over your wet hair and scalp, work into a lather then rinse off. A hair conditioner may be used if you require it. If you use the shampoo bar before it has hardened it will not last very long.
Foaming Bath Bombs (makes 100gm)
Stage 1: (room temperature)
70% Sodium Bicarbonate
20% Citric Acid, Anhydrous
8% SCI Solid Surfactant
Stage 2: (room temperature)
2% Essential Oils of your choice
Witch Hazel Water (to spritz the dry mixture)
Pearlescent Colour or Non Water Based Colour (optional)
Sieve the Sodium Bicarbonate and the Citric Acid into a bowl and mix thoroughly until you have a consistent texture.
Put the SCI Solid Surfactant in your coffee grinder along with enough of the other dry ingredients to cover the blades. Give it a whizz for a couple of minutes then stop, check the size of the SCI chips and grind some more if needed. Be sure to wear a suitable face mask & be careful when taking the lid off the coffee grinder as the powder may be very fine.
When the SCI chips are broken down and the dry ingredients are evenly mixed add this to the remaining dry ingredients and mix together thoroughly.
Add a little of the colour and blend through the mixture so that it is even, with no concentrated colour areas.
Add the essential oils into the mixture. Certain oils may start the mixture to fizz, so work quickly. Do not leave the mixture to stand or it may start to set hard.
Use a little Witch Hazel Water in a plant mister and spray VERY little onto the mix. This is just enough to hold it together and allows you to take a handful and compress it. It should hold the shape of your fist like wet sand would. DO NOT get it too wet.
Press it into moulds quickly and if making ball shapes press two moulds together to form the ball. For the spherical moulds, take one side off to allow the surface to dry slightly.
With tray moulds, turn out gently when the top surface has dried a little.
They are fragile at this point so handle very gently. Leave in a warm, dry place to harden up. Resist the temptation to handle them.
These bath bombs will create foam as well as fizz when dropped into the bath water.
Use cellophane bags to package when they are hard or put small ones into a decorated jar as a gift idea.
Wash the moulds thoroughly after use.
For more information and guidance on making your own skin care products please see Aromantic's books and eBooks in our Publications section.
These notes are not meant to replace medical guidance and you should seek the advice of your doctor for your health matters. The formulae are given in good faith and are intended for educational purposes only. They have not been evaluated or tested in any way and Aromantic Ltd. makes no claim as to their effectiveness. It is up to the reader to ensure that any products they produce from these recipes are safe to use, and if relevant, compliant under current cosmetic regulations.