Glycerine Soap, Solid, Clear is a vegetable (glycerin) based soap that contains no Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. It can be melted and poured into moulds for slicing into bars or poured directly into fancy moulds for individual soaps.
It has excellent transparency, good foaming and moisturising properties from the high glycerine content which gives a good skin feel.
The neutral base is unfragranced and may be used fragrance free or with the addition of essential oils or fragrance oils of your choice with good fragrance projection, however some essential oils may need to be “fixed” so that their aroma lingers for longer.
It has a pH of 7.5 to 8.5 before the addition of other essential oils, fragrances or actives.
It has a firmer consistency than the solid, Glycerine Soap, Solid, Semi Transparent (Organic Ingredients) that we also stock.
Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Sodium Laurate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate
It produces lots of foamy lather and has good cleansing properties along with good moisturisation to the skin due to its very high glycerine content.
Its neutral odour means that any essential oils you choose to add will add a beautiful fragrance.
Small quantities of vegetable oils such as Apricot Kernel Oil, White Poppy Seed Oil etc may be added for extra moisturising properties but be aware that these may make the finished product softer and produce less lather.
Should you choose to add vegetable oils we suggest no more than 2% is added. Active ingredients may also be added but as this is a wash off product they are better used in a leave on product where the skin will benefit from them more.
DO NOT add water to your Melt and Pour Glycerine Soap Base as this will make the end product slimy and not set up properly. If you are adding water based active ingredients or colours keep the amount added low. Do not add pot pourri refresher oils, diffuser oils or candle fragrance oils to your Glycerine Soap Base as they may not be safe for use on the skin.
If you have very short or close cropped hair, the soap can be used to wash it and will leave the scalp moisturised. It is not however, designed as a shampoo bar suitable for longer hair.
Highly fragranced soaps make great air fresheners for bathrooms, cupboards and drawers. When the fragrance has eventually diminished, the soaps are still great soaps for using on your skin.
Lavender and Spearmint makes a great, refreshing scent.
Frangipani and Fragonia makes a very complex, floral aroma.
You may find that citrus essential oils need the addition of a fixative such as May Chang to help them remain longer in the soap. Lime is quite robust but you will find that May Chang gives a more intense lemon scent than Lemon does.
The fragrance of mid notes and base notes tend to remain longer than top notes in the soap base but these are still lovely additions to a blend so don’t be afraid to experiment.
Melt and Pour Glycerine Soap Base is different from traditionally made cold process soap. It is a soap that has been created to produce an easy to use base to which you can add colour, fragrance etc without the need to use Sodium Hydroxide. Melt and Pour Glycerine Soap started out in the same way as traditional cold process type soap but has gone through additional processes to form the glycerine soap base. It depends on the ingredients used and the manufacturing process as to whether the glycerine soap base is clear or translucent.
Melt and Pour Glycerine Soap does not need to be cured and can be used immediately.
One form of soap or another has been used for thousands of years. During the “Dark Ages” soap was little used for personal hygiene. The type of soap made, known as Lye Soap, would have been made from left-over, boiled, animal fats mixed with an alkaline solution made by combining fire ashes and water to create lye. The lye solution would be poured into the melted animal fats which causes it to heat up. This was stirred constantly while it thickened which could take several hours, before being poured into containers to set up. Lye soap was made for cleaning wools and cooking utensils.
It was not generally used as a cosmetic product for a long time. When it did become more popular for personal hygiene, it was an expensive product that was highly taxed, making it a luxury only the wealthy could afford.
Modern cold process bar soap uses factory produced Sodium Hydroxide to saponify the oils. Cold process soap makers create recipes designed to give the soap a variety of properties that are beneficial to the skin. Once made the soap bars are cured for 4-6 weeks while the saponification process is completed and the bars harden.
It is a great product to use with groups of children in clubs, schools etc as it gives almost instant results that can be taken home at the end of the session. Similarly it makes a fun activity for those rainy days in the school holidays.
Many professional soap makers use it with great creativity.
Cut the soap base up into small chunks so that it will melt more easily. Put into a double boiler (bain marie) and heat gently until it starts to melt. Do not leave it melting for a long time as this will evaporate some of the water content and affect the finished quality.
When it is melted, take it off the heat so that it starts to cool slightly. At this point, add any other ingredients that you may wish. If you are adding colours, add WB (water based) or NWB (non water based) colours a few drops at a time and stir thoroughly to get the even shade you want. Try mixing colours together to get different shades.
Pearlescent Mica powders may be added if pre mixed with a little glycerine first, for a luxury sparkle.
Now add any fragrances or essential oils that you want and make sure they are stirred in gently but thoroughly.
If you are adding textures, you can add exfoliants such as Bamboo Powder. Whole or ground oats may be added both for texture, decoration and its soothing properties.
Some petals such as rose or lavender turn ugly brown if incorporated into the soap base so it is best to avoid adding these to the body of the soap. Calendula is an exception, however, and retains it’s natural beauty whether used on the surface or within the soap. Remember to add and stir in any extras slowly to avoid adding air bubbles to the melted soap base.
Pour your soap into a large mould for slicing later or into individual moulds. Tap the mould gently to knock out any air bubbles. If you don’t have any purpose made soap moulds you could try pouring the melted soap base into ice cubes moulds which come in many fun shapes.
If you are adding herbs or flower petals, sprinkle over the surface now and press down gently. Leave to cool and harden up.
As soon as the soaps have hardened completely, turn them out of the moulds and wrap immediately as this soap has such a high glycerin content it attracts moisture to itself and can become sweaty if left open to the air. Store in a cool, dry and dark place until wanted. Should your soaps not release easily from the moulds you can cover them with cling film and place them in the fridge for a few minutes before turning them out. Do not put them in the freezer as the extreme temperature will cause condensation on the surfaces of the soap once it returns to room temperature, this can make the soap slippery and difficult to handle.
Remember to drain your soap between uses as leaving it in a puddle of water will cause your soap to become slimy and not last as long.