NOTE: For further information on our raw materials please refer to the Aromantic Natural Skin Care Library. For information on our Ethical Policy on Raw Materials click here.

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Index of Raw Materials:

• AHA-Fruit Acids (See Natural Fruit AHA)
• Anti-Acne Active Formula INCI Name: Copaifera officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Carapa guaianensis Seed Oil, Euterpe oleraca Fruit Oil (N)
  
• Aosaine INCI Name: Hydrolysed ulva lactuca extract (NK)
• Arctic Blackcurrant Seed CO2 Extract INCI Name: Ribes nigrum (ORG N)
• Arctic Cranberry Seed CO2 Extract INCI: Oxycoccus palustris(N)
• Aromas, Organic (ORG N)
  
• Beta Detergent INCI Name Betaine (NS)
• Betaine INCI Name: Trimethylglycine (NB)
• Bio-Energiser INCI Name: Pelvetia canaliculata laminacia digitata (NS)
• Bisabolol INCI Name:  Bisabolol, Simmondsia chinensis (N)
• Botanical CO2 Extracts
  
• Calendula (Marigold) CO2 Extract INCI Name: Calendula officinalis, Simmondsia chinensis(ORG N)
  
• Chamomile CO2 Extract INCI Name: Simmondsia chinensis, Matricaria chamomilla (ORG N)
  
• Chondrus crispus INCI Name: Chondrus Crispus (N)
• Conditioner-Emulsifier INCI Name: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (N)
• Cosmetic Prebiotic INCI Name: Inulin, Alpha-glucan oligo saccharide (N)
• DHA INCI Name: Dihydroxyacetone (NI)
  
• D-Panthenol INCI Name: Panthenol (NI)
• Echium CO2 Extract INCI Name: Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil (N)
• Exfoliant Cupuaçu INCI Name: Theobroma grandiflorum (ORG N)
• Farnesol INCI Name: Farnesol (NI)
  
• Ground Luffa Flakes INCI Name: Luffa cylindrica (N)
  
• Honey Moisturiser INCI Name: Hydroxypropyltrimomium honey (N)
  
• Lemon-Ester INCI Name: Triethyl Citrate (NS)
  
• Microfine Titanium Dioxide INCI Name: Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicane (N)
• Natural Fruit AHA Including 12-17% Glycolic Acid INCI Name: Aqua & Extracts of Vaccinium myrtillus, Saccharum officinarum (Sugar Cane), Acer saccharinum (Sugar Maple), Citrus aurantium dulcis (Orange) Fruit, Citrus medica limonum (Lemon). (N)
• Olive Leaf (Organic) INCI Name: Olea europaea (ORG N)
• Phytokeratin INCI Name: Hydrolysed corn and wheat protein (NB)
• Pomegranate Extract INCI Name: Glycerine, Punica granatum (N)
• Preservative 12 INCI Name: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin (NI)
• Pseudo Collagen INCI Name:Aqua, Yeast Extract (NS)
  
• Rosemary/Sage Ultranatural Antioxidants (N)
  
• Siberian Ginseng Extract INCI Name: Eleutherococcus Senticosus (N)
  
• Sea Buckthorn C02 Extract INCI Name: Hippophae rhamnoides (N)
  
• Sea Silk INCI Name: Hydrolysed vegetable protein (NK)
• Skin Lightener INCI Name: Aqua, Glycerine, Extracts of Malva sylvestris, Mentha piperita, Primula veris, Alchemilla vulgaris, Veronica officinalis, Melissa officinalis, Achillea millefolium. (N)
• Squalane INCI Name: Squalane (N)
  
• Vitamin A INCI Name: Retinol palmitate (NI)
  
• Vitamin C INCI Name: Aocorbyl phosphate (NI)
• Vitamin E - Natural INCI Name: Tocopherol acetate, Glycine Soya Oil, Helianthuus Annuus Seed Oil (N)
• Vitamin K INCI Name: Phytonadione Gum Acacia, Sucrose (NI)
  

Classifying our Raw Materials

We like to inform our customers in a simple way about our raw materials and have chosen to do this through using the following simple coding system.

A large selection of products that Aromantic stock is based on entirely natural ingredients. However, as soon as we begin to consider the different raw materials for cosmetics, e.g. natural raw materials that have been treated or extracted with substances not found in the original product, it becomes more difficult to define these as 'natural'. So, some of our products, while having a natural origin, will fall into this latter category. Because we like to keep things clear and simple for our customers, we have devised the following coding and classification system:

A = Raw materials of Animal Origin produced with the help of animals but not connected with the taking of animal life e.g. Beeswax.
N = All Natural Raw Materials, extracted through the use of natural methods such as distillation, pressing, drying, yeasting, cooling, oil extraction and CO2 extraction. Examples of these would be Essential Oils, Cold pressed Vegetable Oils, etc.
NK = Natural Raw Materials Extracted with the help of chemicals such as solvents which are not found in the natural raw material, e.g. Jasmine Absolute, Rose de Mai Absolute.
NB = Natural Raw Materials Treated in order to access other properties of the raw material e.g. the conversion of Palm Oil into MF Emulsifier.
NS = Natural Raw Materials Treated & Combined with chemicals/synthetic raw materials, e.g. the conversion of Coconut Butter to an active washing ingredient such as the Detergent Alpha or conversion of Guar Flour to cosmetic Guar Gum Powder.
S = Synthetic Raw Materials, factory produced. Original raw materials may be natural or by-products of the petroleum industry, e.g. Carbamide.
NI = Simulated Natural Raw Materials replicate natural raw materials but are synthetically produced, e.g. Simulated Natural Vitamin E.

We have attempted to classify our raw materials based on our understanding of them at present. To find out more information about the raw materials we stock, as well as the types of materials to avoid, see Aromantic's Education Pack 2.

Raw Materials Information

AHA-Fruit Acids
(See Natural Fruit AHA)

Anti-Acne Active Formula
INCI: Copaifera officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Carapa guaianensis Seed Oil, Euterpe oleraca Fruit Oil. (N)

Aromantic’s new Anti-Acne Active Formula was especially developed to improve the health of problem and acne-prone skin, reducing the acne-forming process. Produced in partnership with small communities of the South American Rain Forest, this unique, 100% natural blend of Acai Oil, Andiroba Oil and Copaiba Balsam  - all rich in natural antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-seborrheic and anti-acne active components, such beta-caryophylene, flavonoids and limmonoids. The synergistic effect of these actives results in excellent cosmetic effectiveness.
Use  - Add 1.5% Anti-Acne Active Formula to Toners, Face Masks, Wipes, Creams, Lotions, Cleansers, Soaps, Make-up and Serums for the properties mentioned in paragraph above.
In-depth look at the active components of the ingredients…

Acai INCI: Euterpe oleraca

Acai pulp oil is rich in:

• Flavonoids
• Essential Fatty Acid (Oleic Acid) and
• Phytosterols

These are powerful antioxidants that provide some protection against
environmental damage to the skin, provide action against free radical
damage during the inflammatory process and promote skin benefits such as moisture retention and regeneration of the skin.

Andiroba INCI: Carapa guianensis

Andiroba contains:

• Fatty Acid (Omega 9)
• Limmonoids
• Omega 9 promotes regeneration of the epidermis, maintaining the natural moisture of the skin. The anti-inflammatory action is promoted by the Limmonoids found in the unsaponifiable fraction.                                

Copaiba  INCI:  Copaiba officinalis or Copaiba balsam

• Copaiba contains:
• Beta-caryophyllene (sesquiterpene). Beta-caryophyllene is a natural germicide obtained from the balsam part of the Essential Oil, excellent for preventing infections and inflammations.

Testing of the Anti-Acne Active Formula
In vivo effectiveness
The effectiveness (at a dosage of 1.5%) of the Anti-Acne Active Formula has been demonstrated on volunteers.

What has been achieved during the testing?
Reduction of the Propionibacterium acnes, otherwise known as the reduction of comedolytic activity
Reduction of seborrheic activity
Cosmetic effectiveness

Comedolytic activity
Objective: evaluate the decrease of comedolytic activity
Volunteers: 20 people, both sexes
Period: 56 days (applied twice daily)
Conclusion: The comedolytic activity decreased by 72% after 56 days.

Seborrheic activity
Objective: evaluate the decrease of seborrheic activity after 42 days
Volunteers: 10 people, both sexes
Period: 42 days (applied twice daily)
Conclusion: The Cream containing 1.5% of the Formula reduced the evolution of “sebum” quantity by 70% after 42 days.

Cosmetic effectiveness
Oily skin:  Reduced in 19 volunteers out of 20 (95% reduction)

Toxicological data – Skin Tolerance

Objective: to prove the absence of the potential primary skin irritation accumulated skin irritation and skin sensitisation.
Volunteers: 50 people (both sexes, aged from 18 to 60 years old, with different phototypes).

Results for Primary and Accumulated skin irritation as well as Skin Sensitisation: 
After the period of study, none of the volunteers presented significant cutaneous reaction in any of these categories.

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Aosaine
INCI Name: Hydrolysed ulva lactuca extract (NK)

Protects collagen and elastin from degradation helping to prevent wrinkles and skin ageing. Aosaine optimises cellular respiration and stimulates collagen production in the skin. It also increases protein synthesis and cell regeneration. Add to products in water suspension (under 40°C). Recommended use 0.4%

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Arctic Blackcurrant Seed CO2 Extract
INCI: Ribes nigrum (ORG N)

A unique source of GLA

The Seed Oil of the Arctic-harvested Blackcurrant Ribes nigrum, is a versatile ingredient lending itself to strong claim substantiations both in personal care, dietary supplements and functional food use. Its balanced combination of rare Gamma-Linolenic Acid and Stearidonic Acid make it the best choice when looking for a natural source of Essential Fatty Acids in their most active form.

Blackcurrant Seed is unusual, in that it contains these two Fatty Acids which are important in human metabolism but which are rarely found in the normal diet. For this reason, Blackcurrant Oil has been developed as a nutritional supplement and cosmetic ingredient. The yield of the Seed is too low for it to be viable as a stand-alone farm crop, so the Oil is obtained from the fruit residue, which remains after the juice has been extracted as a by-product.

Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) is an active Omega 6 Fatty Acid that is essential for healthy skin. It is needed to build the structure of cell membranes, but also to produce eicosanoids, local hormones regulating a wide array of biochemical reactions in skin cells. Stearidonic Acid (SDA) is the Omega 3 series equivalent for Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA). Stearidonic Acid has a high metabolic activity in the human body, forming longer chain fatty acids of the Omega 3 family, precursors of anti-inflammatory local hormones.

The balance of Omega 3 and Omega-6 is pivotal in keeping skin healthy. Blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) Seed Oil contains GLA and SDA in a 4:1 ratio. It is the only plant Oil containing Omega 6 and Omega 3 Fatty Acids in an optimal physiological ratio. A number of clinical studies have shown Blackcurrant Seed Oil’s efficacy in…

• Alleviating eczema
• Soothing itching
• Restoring fatty acid balance
• Moisturising skin
• Reducing chemically induced skin irritation
• Helping rheumatism

Precautions
Pregnant women, nursing mothers and children should avoid the use of Blackcurrant Oil unless a physician recommends it.
Because of possible antithrombotic activity, those with haemophilia and those taking warfarin (Coumadin) should use Blackcurrant Oil with caution.

Due to the high content of Omega 3 it is a very active and nourishing oil but without CO2 extraction it would go rancid within 4-6 months. By using liquid CO2 gas on the material the shelf life is prolonged to around 2 years. Adding Rosemary CO2 extract helps to keep the shelf life.

Technical data

Raw material - Ribes nigrum – Blackcurrant Seeds
INCI Name - Ribes nigrum
Extraction - Produced with Supercritical CO2 Extraction. No solvent residues. No inorganic salts. No heavy metals. Aseptic extraction process.

Fatty Acid Content  

48 – 50% Linoleic Acid – Duo unsaturated fatty acid (Omega 6)
15 – 20% Gamma-Linolenic Acid – (GLA)
12 – 14% Alpha-Linolenic Acid – Polyunsaturated fatty acids (Omega 3)
2 – 4% Stearidonic Acid
0.15% Tocotrienols.

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Arctic Cranberry Seed Oil CO2 Extract
INCI: Oxycoccus palustris(N)

Above the Arctic Circle of Scandinavia, it may be cold but it is far from lifeless. The last wilderness of Europe is teeming with life: the clean rivers, forests and marshlands offer a resort for a plentiful flora, consisting of rarities not found anywhere else. The climate of the North has forced nature to adapt. Long, cold winters and short but intense summers create special requirements for all life. Arctic plants, growing under the never setting midnight sun, have adapted breeding varieties with unique properties and a high concentration of bioactive compounds. Arctic berries are an exciting new source of highly functional active ingredients, which include the seed oils of wild harvested berries. For example, the special lipid extracts from Arctic Cranberries is an excellent source of essential fatty acids perfect for skin treatment as well as tocopherols and tocotrienols which are powerful antioxidants able to counter the effects of ageing. Cranberry juice is already well known for its health benefits but the use of the seeds is a more recent development.

Growing in the Arctic marshlands, Arctic Cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccos, Oxycoccus palustris) accumulates tocotrienols in seeds. In addition, the seed oil contains almost exclusively essential fatty acids, Linoleic (Omega 6) and Alpha-Linolenic Acids (Omega 3).

Tocotrienols are a sub-group of Vitamin E. They differ from the better known Tocopherols by their unsaturated side-chain. This structural difference makes Tocotrienols move faster in cell membranes and results in higher anti-oxidant and radical scavenging activity.

Skin seems to have specific needs for tocotrienols to fight against different stresses imposed by rough environments. In fact, it has the highest concentrations of tocotrienols in the human body. Quick moving tocotrienols gives the skin the best protection against free radicals. Cranberry Seed Oil provides essential fatty acids and tocotrienols, offering a three-in-one kit for nourishing, moisturising and protecting the skin in the most natural way. It's good to use on the face and in body oils, especially in anti-wrinkle blends, creams and lotions and as a dietary supplement.

Technical data...

Raw material - Oxycoccus palustris (Vaccinium oxycoccos) / Arctic Cranberry Seeds
INCI Name - Oxycoccus palustris
Extraction - Produced with Supercritical CO2 Extraction. No solvent residues. No inorganic salts. No heavy metals. Aseptic extraction process.

Fatty Acid Content

20 – 23% Oleic Acid - Mono unsaturated fatty acid (Omega 9)
38 – 40% Linoleic Acid – Duo unsaturated fatty acid (Omega 6)
33 – 34% Alpha Linolenic Acid – Poly unsaturated fatty acid (Omega 3)
0.19% Tocotrienols.

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Organic Aromas
(ORG N)

We now stock alcohol-based Natural Aromas produced from organic raw materials, controlled by EcoCert. These are great fragrances for all water-based products such as Creams, Lotions, Gels, Soaps and Shampoos. You can also use them in fat-based products such as Lip Balms and Lip Glosses. When you use these fat-based products they work best with Beeswax in the recipe. (The results can vary in oil-only products.) They open up exciting new possibilities for Lip products and also give your products a wonderful taste. The Aromas can also be used in foods such as sweets, deserts, puddings, ice creams and drinks. Alcohol content - 15%. Dosage: 0.5-1%.

Organic Aromas we stock:

• Caramel
• Chocolate
• Coconut
• Mango and Lime
• Pineapple
• Raspberry
• Strawberry

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Beta Detergent
INCI Name: Betaine (NS)

Betaine occurs naturally in sugar beet but is produced from coconut butter and then transformed into a Detergent with the help of chemicals. Betaine 30% is an amphoteric Detergent, which is very gentle on the skin. It is often used in combination with other Detergents to make them milder and it produces a good foam. Fine pores and stable. Betaine 30% is used for Hair and Body Cleansing products at a strength of 6-8%. Combined with Lauryl Sulphate Betaine 30% can be thickened with salt. Its pH value is 6-7 and its active cleansing agent content is 50%. Environmental considerations: 98% biodegradable. Approved by the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency for sale under the label 'Good Environmental Choice'.

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Betaine  
INCI: Trimethylglycine (N)

NB This is not the same product as our Beta Detergent which is derived from Coconut Oil.

The Versatile Active Raw Material...

Betaine, chemically known as trimethylglycine, is a completely natural, edible compound found in products such as sugar beet, spinach and broccoli, and in some crustacean such as shrimps. Our Betaine is industrially produced in Scandinavia, from sugar beet molasses using unique chromatographic separation technology protected by worldwide patents and is a very versatile product. It is excellent for Skin Care, Hair and Dental Care products. Tests show that it has anti-wrinkle efficacy when used at 10% in products. It is water soluble. Dosage from 0.5-10%. Just add the powder to water in the water stage. It can be heated to 80°C. It can also be diluted in a little water and added to the third stage.

Natural Betaine is used in Skin Care formulations as a Moisturiser and Stabiliser for its unique water-binding and cell membrane protectant properties. Because of its clearly perceivable ability to improve skin feel and reduce the stickiness of formulations and increase their spreading properties, Betaine is ideal for a wide range of cosmetic applications.

Betaine also increases the water solubility of active compounds. AHA and antiperspirant formulations can also be buffered by Betaine. Clinical studies have shown that Betaine is able to protect the skin against mechanical and chemical injury.

In surfactant solutions, Betaine acts as a foam modifier and increases the foam volume and stability of SLES and amphoterics, and improves the after-feel of Conditioners.

Betaine in Skin Care (Dosage: Add 0.5-2%)

Functions

• Moisturiser in Creams, Lotions, Tonics, Sun Care, Aftershave, Face Masks
• Water binder in Anti-aging Treatments (10%), Hand Creams, Foundations
• Provides osmo-protection in Dry Skin Treatments, Bath Formulations, Deodorants, Antiperspirants, Cleansing and Shaving products, AHA Creams, Conditioners
• Feel-improver in Massage Creams, Foundations, Hand Creams, Skin Conditioners and Lotions, Eye Contour products, Oil-in-water and water-in-Oil Emulsions.

Betaine in Hair Care (Dosage: Add 0.5-2%)

Functions

• Hair Conditioner in Conditioners, Hair Rinses, Hair Tonics
• Water co-ordination in Styling Gels and Mousses, Hair Sprays, Shampoos
• Osmo-protection in Shampoos and perms, Hair Colourants, Scalp Lotions
• Hair strengthener in Conditioners.

Betaine in Oral Care (Dosage: Add 2-5%)

Functions

• Water co-ordination in Mouth Washes, Toothpaste (very good for dry mouth syndrome)
• Osmo-protection in Tooth Whitening and Gum Treatments.

Human Clinical Efficacy Tests

Skin properties

• Anti-wrinkle efficacy (long term test) Add 10% (See Ref 1)
• Sebometry (long term test) (See Ref 1)
• Elasticity (long term test) (See Ref 1)
• TEWL (short and long term test) (See Ref 1)
• Skin hydration (short and long term test) (See Ref 1)
• Cell turn-over rate increase  (See Ref 1)

Skin Protection Add 7-10%

• Anti-inflammatory effect (See Ref 2)
• Washing test on the crook of the elbow with SLS (See Ref 3)
• Human patch tests for skin irritation in personal care formulations (See Ref 4)

Hair and Scalp Treatment.  Add 2-5%

• Water Retention Capacity on the Hair (See Ref 1)
• Effect in Shampoo and Styling Gel (See Ref 5)
• Hair Strengthening Evaluation (See Ref 51)
• Leave-on Hair Conditioner (See Ref 5)
• Human Patch test for Skin Irritation at various levels of SLS

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Bio-Energiser
INCI Name: Pelvetia canaliculata laminacia digitata (NS)

Bisabolol
INCI Name: Bisabolol (N)

Bisabolol is a natural occurring versatile active ingredient for the cosmetic industry. It is the main constituent of chamomile (Matricaria chamomile). Which has been used in traditional medicine in Europe for hundreds of years. The action of Bisabolol in the skin is very well documented.

The most important effects of Bisabolol are:

• Anti-inflammatory
• Anti-bacterial
• Anti-mycotic
• Anti-phlogistic
• Non-allergic

This makes it the preferred active ingredient for protection of the skin against all kinds of daily stress. Natural Alpha-Bisabolol is colour stable after long storage periods and does not diffuse through plastic containers. Application Dosage: Natural Alpha-Bisabolol is used in cosmetic products such as Ointments, Creams and Lotions because of its compatibility with the skin. Natural Alpha-Bisabolol is an additive in the following Personal Care products:

• Acne Treatment preparations
• Aftershave 0.5% (Pre-shave 1%)
• Body Care
• Body Lotion
• Body Scrub
• Hair Treatment Creams and lotions
• Hand Wash Lotions
• Mouthwash/Toothpaste and Oral Hygiene preparations
• Moisturiser
• Skin Care Creams
• Skin-irritation preparations
• Sunscreen: Before and After Creams and Lotions
• Shiny Lip Gloss (1%)

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Aromantic’s Botanical Glycerol and CO2 Extracts

In 2005, I was talking to a major raw materials provider for the cosmetic industry. They had hundreds of herbal extracts for sale and I was interested in buying a few of them. The very honest salesman was aware that Aromantic has high ethical standards and recommended against buying almost 30% of the products they had listed in their catalogue. He explained that hundreds of herbal extracts sold to cosmetic companies were so diluted to be almost totally ineffective. The cosmetic companies who purchased them were only interested in putting the herbal name on their bottles. Both seller and buyers were well aware of this and I appreciated his honesty. How many people are being misled by this form of bogus marketing by High Street retailers?

Our Botanical Glycerol Extracts
As a consequence of that, we have decided to source Herbal Extracts in Vegetable-based Glycerine from Provence in France. Most commercial products use Propylene Glycol, which is not as good.

Aromantic’s Comfrey and Witch Hazel Botanical Extracts are especially made for our supplier in Provence, France from fresh, ecologically grown or wild herbs with Eco Cert certification (The French equivalent to The Soil Association).

70% vegetable Glycerine together with 30% water is used to extract the plant material. This method extracts most of the water and fat-soluble ingredients from the plants. This is therefore a combination product, which has a moisturising effect on the skin as well as the benefit of the herbal properties.

As Glycerine is water-soluble it is very convenient to use in water-based products. Use in Shampoos, Liquid Soaps, Deodorants, Creams, Lotions, Gels, Face Masks, Hair Packs and Toothpastes.

Add the Extract when your recipe is under 40°C or add it directly to cold products. Use at a dosage of 3–6% (3% contains 2% Glycerine and 6% contains 4% Glycerine).

Our Botanical CO2 Extracts

In the cosmetic field, CO2 Extracts are used as bioactive components in Creams, Skin Oils, Body Milks and Lotions, Before and After Sun products, etc. Supercritical CO2 fluid extraction is an established process for the decaffeination of tea and coffee, as well as for hop ingredients, of perfumery and aromatherapy. CO2 Extracts are becoming more and more popular. The intention is to eliminate harmful organic solvents used in the past for the production of lipophilic Botanical Extracts, to avoid environmental pollution and to have a high grade extract composition very close to the natural raw material.

The benefits of CO2 Extraction can be summarised as:

• less rearrangement of Essential Oil constituents because low temperature is used
• no concern regarding solvent residues
• CO2 is acceptable as a food grade "solvent"
• low temperature processing means sensitive products do not deteriorate
• gentle extraction process
• high quality separation eliminates the need to remove solvent and other residues by further processing
• standardised Extracts
• highly concentrated

Compared to Propylene Glycolic Extracts, the CO2 Extracts are much more pure and in a concentrated form. They are free of any solvent residues and diluting agents and are composed almost exclusively of the raw material's ingredients without any dilution and accordingly can be used in a fairly low dosage. This low dosage means that a high quality, active cosmetic product can be created at a reduced cost.

NB If you choose to use more than one CO2 Extract, know that the Extracts are very concentrated in their effect and it’s not necessary to have more than a total amount of 3% Extract in your product.

Regarding our CO2 Extracts’ concentration, a large amount of raw materials are needed to make just 1 kg of our CO2 Extracts. These are examples of the quantities of raw materials used…

1 Kg Carrot CO2 Extract: 63–77 kg of carrots
1 Kg Marigold CO2 Extract: 7–10 kg of marigold flowers
1 Kg Sea Buckthorn Pulp CO2 Extract: 8-14 kg of raw materials
1 Kg Rosehip Seed CO2 Extract: 13–15 kg of Rosehip seeds (not Rosehips!)
1 Kg Evening Primrose CO2 Extract: 4.5–5.3 kg of seeds
1 Kg Chamomile CO2 Extract: 10–15 kg of Chamomile flowers

So, as you can see – if you put one our Extracts into your products at the dosages we suggest, you can be sure that the Extract will have a real effect and that it won’t just be on the label for the sake of increasing sales. Your customers will always come back to you if your products contain high quality raw materials with real benefits!

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Calendula CO2 Extract
INCI Name: Calendula officinalis Flower Extract (CO2), Simmondsia chinensis (N)

Chamomile CO2 extract
INCI Name: Matricaria chamomilla, Simmondsia chinensis (N)

Chondrus Crispus Flakes
INCI Name: Chondrus Crispus (N)

Conditioner-Emulsifier
INCI: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (N)

A new natural raw material that works both as an Emulsifier and a Conditioner in one. It is a cationic fatty acid ester, which binds oil and water. It makes the hair very soft and easy to comb with a Conditioner effect. Produced from vegetable-based Stearic Acid. Works best when 0.5% - 1% Citric or Lactic Acid is added. Natural Skin Care companies in Germany often use this raw material. It is also certified by the German natural skin care organisation, BDEH. Use: 4-5%.

Cosmetic Prebiotic
INCI: Inulin, Alpha-glucan oligo saccharide (N)

Our Skin’s Essential Balance

This is a natural prebiotic, which is derived from the inulin of chicory root. The other part is obtained from natural sugars through a potential enzymatic process. Add 1–4% blended in a little water to Stage 3 of your formulations under 40°C.

Use in:

• Creams
• Gels
• Shampoos
• Body products
• Feminine care
• Disinfectants
• Sensitive skin
• Acne
• Dandruff products
• Deodorants
• Sun Care products

The existence of the first skin barrier is depending on the survival of the beneficial organisms. Their survival depends on the skin conditions. The upper layer of the skin is in equilibrium with the friendly organisms. The slightest disturbance in these skin conditions endangers the population of friendly and useful organisms. When they are diminished, the harmful bacteria see their chance to grow and to take their place. After a while the friendly organisms have less and less chance to survive. The harmful organisms are winning. They are now determining the skin conditions (increase pH). These conditions are absolutely not in favour of our beneficial bacteria. The friendly bacteria are even more reduced. The first defence barrier is gone. The consequences are:

• More harmful bacteria penetrate into the skin.
• The skin defence system is alarmed and is producing more and more oxidising components to kill the harmful bacteria.
• The destruction of healthy skin cells leads to destruction of the skin barrier.
• The destruction of the skin barrier leads to more penetration of foreign substances such as harmful bacteria.
• Short term effect: leading to infection and inflammation.
• Long term effect: premature formation of wrinkles.
• This excess of oxidising substances destroys also healthy skin cells: leading to redness, itching and irritation.

The causes for disturbance in the delicate balance:

Pollution
Dust from cigarettes; Vapour; Exhaust gas
Abrupt changes
From hot room to freezing cold; From air conditioned car to the hot air
Excess sun
Sun acne
Excess cold
Red spots during skiing

Age

Baby: friendly organisms are not established yet.
Teenager: acne
Pregnant woman: due to hormonal changes.
Elderly: less sebum results in less protective organisms.

Stress
Adult acne, cold sores, reaction urticaria.

Malnutrition
Defiance of essential amino acids, vitamins, etc

Use of medicine
Antibiotics destroy friendly organisms.
Use of cosmetics
Preservatives destroys also friendly organisms.
Cosmetics can change the pH of skin.
Cosmetics can be contaminated.

Household chemicals
Powerful detergents remove the beneficial flora. Alkaline soaps change the pH of skin, leading to destruction of skin flora.

Use of disinfectants
Disinfectants such as benzalkonium chloride or ethanol eliminate all
bacteria. The skin is completely free from bacteria. Each micro-organism
(friendly or harmful) has now the same chance to grow.

The Prebiotic effect

The reality is that the causes that disturb this delicate balance are always present. The first rule is to prevent the disturbance in this barrier. But it is impossible to prevent this all the time. This is especially the case for babies, elderly people and people with sensitive skin. An effective solution is to make the friendly organisms stronger against important changes in the skin balance. The organisms can become stronger by a prebiotic ingredient..

A prebiotic is actually a food supplement for the friendly organism, while the harmful organism can not use the prebiotic as a food supplement. In presence of a prebiotic the friendly bacteria can recover and grow faster than the harmful. Even when the natural balance is disturbed, the prebiotic helps to recover the friendly bacteria. In presence of a prebiotic the friendly bacteria have a serious advantage on the harmful ones.

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DHA
INCI Name: Dihydroxyacetone (NI)

A Self-Tanning Agent, DHA is a natural, biodegradable substance derived from the bioconversion of Glycerol extracted from Palm or Rapeseed Oil. Non-genetically modified bacteria are used for the bioconversion process and no chemical solvent used for crystallisation of the substance. DHA is also present in the human body. As a consequence, the risk of allergic response is very low. It has also been demonstrated that chronic applications do not induce any carcinogenic effect.

The use of DHA results in a natural-looking brown or golden hue, to the skin, without exposure to the sun. The induced tan provides photo-protection against UVA radiation. DHA works by interacting with the amino acids only in the surface cells found in the outermost layers of the skin, producing colour changes. As the dead skin cells naturally wear off, the colour gradually fades, just like a genuine sun tan. This does not cause damage to the underlying living layers of skin.

DHA is the ideal ingredient for all cosmetic formulations for bronzing the skin, or for the prolonging of it. DHA can also be used as a supplement in conventional Sun Screen preparations to give an intense tan with less exposure to the sun and to provide UVA protection.

Dosage:

• Self-Tanning preparations: 3% - 5% DHA
• Sun Screen preparations: 0.5% - 3% DHA

To add to your product, dissolve in a little cold water and then add while the product is under 40˚C.

NB The raw material needs to be kept dry, away from light and in the fridge. In addition, the pH of your product containing DHA needs to be under 5.5. Test your product with litmus paper and add Lactic Acid, Citric Acid or Ascorbic Acid to reduce the pH.

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D-Panthenol
INCI Name: Panthenol (NI)

D-Panthenol, currently sold and known as provitamin B5, is a clear, colourless, odourless syrup-like liquid. It is very stable when exposed to light and air but becomes unstable when heated above 50ºC. D-Panthenol is water-soluble and is produced chemically with the help of the amino acid Beta-Alanine. It is sold as a 75% solution, which is easy to dose.

There are certain Vitamins, which can be used in Hair, Body and Skin Care products, and D-Panthenol is the Vitamin, which is the most widely used provitamin B5 agent in the cosmetics industry. An effective Moisturiser, Anti-inflammatory, and provitamin B5 (Pantothenic Acid) ingredient, D-Panthenol binds water in the outer layer of the skin, nails, follicles and hair. Because of its physical properties, it is easily incorporated into all normal cosmetics formulations. However, There is not much point in using D-Panthenol, or any other Vitamins, in Body Soaps as these are washed off long before they get a chance to have any effect.

Used in Skin Care products, D-Panthenol:

• Improves and increases the humidity properties of the skin (Moisturising effect) and so makes dry skin softer and more elastic.
• Has an anti-inflammatory effect and soothes irritated skin.
• Stimulates epithelisation and helps to speed up the healing of burns, acne sores, and minor wounds such as shaving nicks, skin grazes and blisters (studies have shown that a 5% dosage has shown up to a 37% improvement in epithelisation).
• Increases pigment production and reduces the damaging effects of sunlight.
• Is anti-bacterial.

Used in Hair Care products, D-Panthenol:

• Creates a protective film, which has a long-lasting moisturising effect.
• Improves the manageability of hair by penetrating into the hair follicles and strands of hair.
• Reduces the formation of damaged hair.
• Thickens the hair.
• Gives the hair shine.
• Soothes itchiness and infections of the scalp.
• Treats dry, thin and sensitive hair.
• Can replace the polymers used in Hair products like Setting Lotions and Hair Sprays.

Vitamins are most effective in Hair Packs that are allowed to stay in and work on the hair for an extended length of time. This gives them the chance to attach themselves to the strands of hair and work on them effectively. In contrast to the normal softeners, D-Panthenol is released from the film coating the hair and penetrates the hair slowly. The Panthenol which penetrates the hair is replaced with sebum so the hair does not get heavy and the style lasts longer.

Studies have shown that although single applications of Panthenol have an effect multiple applications give better results. Panthenol is deposited on the hair and also penetrates the hair shaft accumulating in the hair.

Used in Nail Care products, D-Panthenol: can substantially increase the water storage capacity of nail keratin, which in turn improves the flexibility and strength of nails.

D-Panthenol can be used in Skin and Hair Care products in doses of 3 - 6% of the 75% solution D-Panthenol (25% of the solution is water). It is used together with Allantoin and other Vitamins in Regenerative Creams, Lotions and Face Waters.

Also used in Shampoos, Conditioners and Packs. When used in Sun and After Sun products, it gives extra protection from the sun.

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Echium CO2 Extract
INCI: Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil (N)

Echium has the same GLA content as Evening Primrose Oil. This is a difficult product to source as the large cosmetic companies buy all of the crops. It is considered to be an effective anti-wrinkle agent. Dosage: 1-3 %.

It is produced free of pesticides. Echium is a member of the Borage family and, like Borage it grows quickly, competing well with weeds.

Its Seed Oil is unusual in that it contains a unique ratio of Omega 3 and Omega 6 Fatty Acids. These lipids, previously obtained from other plant sources, have been used for many years in food supplements. Of potential interest for health food applications are the appreciable amounts of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) as well as the unusual Polyunsaturated Fatty Acid - Stearidonic Acid (cis 6,9,12,15 - 18:4). Stearidonic Acid is the equivalent position of GLA in the Omega 3 metabolic pathway.

Echium is probably the best agricultural source of this material at the moment. The Seed Oil is used in cosmetic products for its moisturising and anti-inflammatory action. It is also very good for After Sun Care and Anti-wrinkle applications.

Echium Oil contains between 12 and 14% Stearidonic Acid compared to 2% found in the only other available commercial source, Blackcurrant Seed Oil. Stearidonic Acid reduces skin inflammation by suppressing the release of Arachidonic Acid as well as the transformation of the Fatty Acid into proinflammatory eicosanoids.

The recent high level of interest in fish oils by the health food sector has been stimulated by the realisation that the western diet does not contain a sufficient proportion of Omega 3 Fatty Acids. Echium Oil not only contains significant levels of Omega 3 Fatty Acids but also has the tremendous advantage of being derived from a naturally renewable plant source. A combination of these factors has lead to interest in using Echium Oil as a dietary supplement and perhaps in the near future, as an ingredient in functional foods. However, in the short term, it is the Skin Care application of this Oil that is of greater interest. Considerable research has been carried out into the effectiveness of Stearidonic Acid as a systemic treatment of eczema, acne and other skin disorders. Two areas where Echium Oil would seem to have obvious applications are After Care following exposure to the sun and in Anti-wrinkle products.

UV radiation induces the release of Arachidonic Acid from cell membrane Phospholipids, which is converted via a series of steps into inflammatory metabolites such as prostaglandin E2. When applied topically to the skin, Echium Oil inhibited the release of PGE2 by nearly two thirds when compared to untreated tissue.

Work has also been carried out investigating the use of Echium Oil as an anti-wrinkling agent (K Coupland AOCS meeting Florida 1998). A study was performed comparing the effect of a cream containing 5% Echium Oil and a control cream with a non-Stearidonic Acid Vegetable Oil on skin rugosity over a 28-day period. There were ten subjects in each group. The application of Echium Oil resulted is a statistically significant reduction in both the main wrinkles studied and the average skin roughness.

The significant levels of EFA’s and GLA contained in Echium Oil should alone warrant interest, while the recent and ongoing research highlighting Stearidonic Acid’s important role in reducing skin inflammation shows that Echium Oil is unparalleled in its effectiveness for Skin Care applications.

Typical composition of Echium Oil...

Triglycerides of the following fatty acids:

Linoleic Acid	15%	Alpha Linolenic Acid	34%
Gamma Linoleic Acid	10%	Stearidonic Acid	13%

Typical Gamma-Linolenic (GLA) and Stearidonic Acid content of plant seed oils…

	Stearidonic acid	Gamma-Linolenic acid
Blackcurrant seed	2 – 3%	10 – 15%
Borage		20 – 23%
Evening Primrose		8 – 11%
Echium	11 – 14%	9 – 12%

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Exfoliant Cupuaçu
INCI: Theobroma grandiflorum (ORG N)

These fine bio-scrub particles with a faint smell of chocolate provide a stimulating, yet gentle scrub action with low abrasion on the skin and is therefore gentle enough to use on the face.

From the seeds of the Cupuaçu tree, harvested in a sustainable development managed within the South American Rainforest. Approved by Eco-Cert as an Organic product. The manufacturer works with nature, obtaining its precious resources with care and responsibility. Cupuaçu fruits are oblong, brown, and fuzzy, 20 cm (8 in) long, 1–2 kg (2–4 lb) in weight, and covered with a thick (4–7 mm), with a hard exocarp. Several aspects of Cupuaçu make it interesting. The flowers, for example, are the biggest of the gender. They do not grow on the log, as the Theobromine, but in the branches. Their seeds are industrialised for the production of a Wax Butter with excellent quality, from which an Oil is refined and filtered and which has fantastic properties for the cosmetic industry. Exfoliant ‘Cupuaçu’ has a faint smell of chocolate as the tree is related to Cacao.

Properties
The seeds contain phytosterols, which act at a cellular level by regulating the lipids on the superficial layer of the skin. Phytosterols are also used for skin and ulcer treatment by local application, order to stimulate the scarring process. The structure of the phytosterols is formed by Beta-Sitosterol, Stigmasterol, and Campesterol. The Beta-Sitosterol properties are similar to the chemical structure of cholesterol. It represents more than 70% of unsaponifiable fraction of the Cupuaçu Butter.

Benefits of Exfoliant ‘Cupuaçu’:

• Improves circulation
• Removes dead skin cells
• Rejuvenates the skin
• Physically stimulates skin through massage
• Removes dirt from pores
• Leaves a soft feeling to the skin
• Revitalisation properties

For use in Skin and Body Care

• Shower Gels
• Liquid and Solid Soaps
• Cleansers
• Peelers
• Massage Oils
• and Hand and Feet preparations.
  

Add 1-10% in your products, according to the desired feel on your skin. It can be applied to face and body daily.

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Farnesol
INCI Name: Farnesol (NI)

A bacteria-control Agent, which occurs naturally in a number of Essential Oils, e.g. Palmarosa, Sandalwood, Lemongrass, Tuberose, Petitgrain and Chamomile Oils. Farnesol is a natural sesquiterpene alcohol, effective in inhibiting the growth of nuisance skin bacteria responsible for Body Odour, Acne and Athletes Foot. In simple terms, Farnesol kills the bacteria which makes our sweat smell unpleasant. It does not close off the pores and does not prevent the secretion of sweat. Usually used at a strength of approximately 1% in Deodorants, in combination with 4-5% Lemon-Ester. The effect lasts for 5-6 hours. 

Farnesol Dosage guidelines:

• Acne Control products 0.3%
• Body Wash products 0.3%
• Deodorants 0.3 - 1.0%
• Foot Care products 0.3%

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Sea Buckthorn is a hardy bush often reaching 2–4 m in height in natural habitats, bearing delicious yellow-orange berries, referred to as “Siberian pineapple” in Russia, because of its taste and juiciness. Six species have been described; of which Hippophae rhamnoidesis isthe major one. The natural habitat of Sea Buckthorn extends widely in the mountainous and coastal areas of China, Mongolia, Russia, most parts of Northern Europe, and South America. It is a unique and valuable plant currently cultivated in various parts of the world, including Canada. Tibetans started using Sea Buckthorn more than one thousand years ago, and hundreds of Asian traditional recipes have been developed and used through many generations for its nutritional and medicinal properties. Sea Buckthorn berries contain nutrients and Vitamins in their Seeds, Pulp and Juice. These nutrients include vitamins A, K, E, C, B1, B2, Folic Acid, Essential Fatty Acids, Lipids, Amino Acids, and Minerals. Studies conducted in 20th