For cleansing milks use 1% - 2% and use heavier oils like Castor Oil or some solid fats.
When using 1% - 3 %, add about 0.2% Xanthan Gum or EmulsiGel Eco to act as a stabiliser and add it to the fat stage.
For lotions use 3% - 4%.
At this ratio, no extra stabiliser is needed but you can combine with 1% or 2% Cetearyl Alcohol to give more substantive body or simply use thicker oils or solid fats like cocoa butter.
The maximum oil content is 20% As an easy rule of thumb, use a 1:5 ratio ie 1% Emulsifier L to 5% fats. 5% Emulsifier L to 25% fats. Of course, there will be more variabilities possible depending on which oils you use as well as which solid fats.
You can also add 1% to 2% Cetearyl Alcohol to make a much thicker product with even greater stability if needed.
To use the emulsifier correctly, add the Emulsifier L to the Stage 1 (fat stage) and heat in a double boiler until the temperature is over 75°C. The Stage 2 (water stage) should also be over 75°C.
Pour the fat stage into the water stage and use a stick blender (high shear) to emulsify the two stages.
This will happen in just 20 seconds or so, so keep checking. When you lift the stick blender out of the mixture, the mix running off the blender hood should look like a thin cream.
If it looks granular or like it is separating, it needs more high shear blending.
When it has emulsified, take it out of the double boiler and use a spatula to stir it whilst it is cooling down.You can use a cold water bath to speed up the cooling.
Do not continue to use the stick blender as this will destroy the liquid crystal structure that the emulsification has formed.
When it is under 40°C, add any Stage 3 (heat sensitive) ingredients. Combine thoroughly, jar and label
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