by Kolbjorn Borseth
An easy way to tailor-make your Creams and Lotions is to, for example, make a Base Cream for Dry Skin, simply reduce the water in the Water Stage by 10-20% and then, add the third stage ingredients such as Aloe Vera Gel and Vitamin E Oil. You can then store the Cream and add other raw materials when tailor-making it for your client’s needs.
How to add raw materials when tailor-making your Creams & Lotions
- To add any liquid raw materials, add the same amount as the water you left out in the water stage.
- To add powdered raw materials, mix into the Cream or Lotions thoroughly
- use usual recommended dosages and blend in with an electric blender.
Raw Materials you can add to your Cream or Lotion
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Moisturisers - e.g. D-Panthenol, NFF-Moisturiser, Carbamide (diluted in hot water), Comfrey Glycerol Extract
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Powders - e.g. Silica, Zinc oxide (for psoriasis and eczema). Note: it’s not possible to dissolve these minerals but they’ll work as they are.
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Active raw materials - AHA, Anti-Acne Formula, etc (see our website for list of all the Active Raw Materials). Blend in with an electric blender.
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Vitamins - you can add up to 3-4% of Vitamin E as well as other vitamins.
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Tinctures - add up to 15%. Make the Cream or Lotion much thinner but also help to preserve it. Be aware that alcohol dries out/adds colour to your skin.
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Botanical CO2 Extracts - add the usual recommended dosages. Be aware that the colour of the Cream or Lotion may change dramatically.
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Hydrosols - use up to the same amount as the amount of water you left out in the water stage. Adjust essential oils to the type of hydrosol you used.
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Colours - simply mix a 1/2 teaspoon of Pearlescent Colour into a tablespoon of Glycerine. Mix until you have a smooth paste and add to the Cream or Lotion until you have the colour you like.
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Vegetable Oils - you may want to add oils especially those dry, thin oils that tend to have a high content of omega 3 fatty acids, such as Evening Primrose, Borage, Rosehip, Camelina and Kiwi Seed Oil. Fattier oils don’t mix in that well but can still be blended in. afterwards. Therapeutically it is okay to add these oils to a cream/lotion after it has been made, but from a cosmetic point of view, the oils are best added when actually making the cream/lotion at a temperature of just under 40°C so that they disperse well into the cream/lotion.
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Cream or Lotion too thin now?
If your Cream or Lotion is too thin after adding all of your raw materials then sprinkle Xanthan Gum (up to 0.5%) over the Cream or Lotion and, using an electric stick blender, blend until you have the consistency you want. Beware of the Cream splashing all over the place - use a deeper container to avoid this!
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